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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2006 6:00 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Some discussion came out in the threads about recent top bracing discussions and Roger Siminoff's stuff was mentioned. He and I were e-mailing today on some business and I posed him this question:

"Roger, I just finished bracing my first guitar top and have read your
Luthiers Handbook a couple of times now and was wondering about tuning the
top to a 'note'. I think that you have said, and it seems quite logical to
me, that if the 'box' has a harmonic resonance (probably wrong term) that is
a note that is common to most playing, like a 'G' or 'C' then that note will
sound louder than all others when played so tuning the 'box' should result
in a note seldom played like A flat or something. So my question is
wouldn't you do this tuning once the box was together? Or would you tune
each plate, the top and back, seperately and hope that once coupled that
they continue to resonate at this same frequency that is outside the 'usual'
chromatics."

To this he replied:

"Yes, the "box" has a harmonic resonance (right term), and that note
is heard along with the sound of every note played on the instrument.
And, therefore, it should be in tune with - or a quarter tone out of
phase of - the concert pitch of the instrument. Yes, you do the
tuning once the box is together. The larger the soundhole the higher
the pitch, etc. But that only tunes the AIR CHAMBER - you also need
to tune each of the parts, which in essence adjusts their stiffness
(since stiffness and pitch are relative). Call me if you want to talk
about it more fully - very glad to chat on the subject."

So I will give him a call over the weekend and discuss further. I am wondering if anyone has something specific that would relate to this issue that I should discuss with him.

Thanks

Shane

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2006 6:56 am 
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Cocobolo
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Wow Shane,

That's cool. You talk to so many intersting people. I also have Siminoff's book and when I read it I recall having some questions, but I can't remember them now. I'll try to have a look at the book again tonight and see if I can remember what it was I want to know.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2006 8:54 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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The completed box acts like a 'bass reflex' speaker cabinet, with the top, and, to some extent,the back, as he speaker and the soundhole as the port. The frequencies of the two lower resonances are thus a product of both the 'air' and 'wood' resonances. You can set these things up in advance, more or less, by the way you 'tune' the top, and the back to some extent, and the size and location of the hole. However, it's really hard to predict _exactly_ what pitches you'll get until you have some experience with a given model and size and wood combination, and even then....

Generally speaking the notes closest to the pitches of the 'air' and 'top' will sound different, and usually louder, than other notes. Often what's more noticable is a lack of sustain: twice as much power in a tone doesn't really sound 'twice as loud' because of the way your ears work, but it sucks the energy from the string twice as fast.

I'm not sure what 'a quarter tone out of phase of concert pitch' means. I often have a little trouble following Roger's explainations, but then, I'm sure he has trouble with mine, too.... ;)

There's a HELL of a lot more to getting good tone out of a guitar than just tuning the lower box resonances, although that's certainly a great start. I, too, would be interested in a report of what he has to say.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2006 8:59 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Shane, when you talk to Roger, why not invite him to drop by the forum? I'm sure he would be a valuable source of information.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 4:37 am 
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Cocobolo
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...I would have some questions to ask him too
Gg


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 5:09 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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What are they Luigi, I am going to call him later today or tomorrow, after I have a chance to read a bit more of stuff and get all of my thoughts together. I willadd your questions to the list.

Thanks
Shane

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 6:06 am 
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Cocobolo
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For those of you in the SoCal area and beyond, you might consider
attending
Loarfest
which kicks off SuperGrass, a new
bluegrass festival hosted by the California Bluegrass Association to be
held February 2-5, 2006 in Bakersfield, California.

I'll be on a panel with Roger and some other very knowledgeable folks
discussing the development of the F5 mandolin, and I'm sure Roger will
discuss his theories on plate tuning.

It's also a good chance to ask him what questions you might have in
person...

Should be quite interesting....







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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 7:23 am 
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Koa
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Hey Shane,
I always pay attention to these kind of discussions because I have been very interested in the relationships of plates to airspace and how it effects the overall tone and volume of the guitar. I started to notice that all my guitars had a note that when played, seemed muted like some sort of cancellation was going on. Some have called these “wolf tones” but I have also learned this is not quite the right term for this.
My little exercise that you folks can try at home is to “sing” a sweeping note into your sound hole of your guitar until you find a note that makes your guitar body vibrate. Now, play that note on the guitar and you will likely find it doesn’t sustain as well as the other notes. You would think it would be louder but..
I’d have to say that Alan Carruth has given the best understood explanation for this naturally occurring phenomenon than any other.
In any event, I stopped thinking about this phenomenon as a problem when Alan explained that many of the instruments that have these “wolf tones” can turn out to be the most “successful” instruments sound wise in as far as tone and volume.
Alan, I like the speaker analogy too! thanks,

Wade

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 8:24 am 
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Hey Shane,

I was looking through Roger's book and on page 74 there are a couple of things that confuse me.

In the left hand column he talks about tuning the top, back and air chamber of the instrument before it has been assembled. Maybe I'm missing something, but if the instrument hasn't been assembled the air chamber doesn't exist yet right?   

On the right side he gives an example of tuning a banjo to D# and then at the bottom of the page he says that you shouldn't tune the instrument to a sharp or flat note. This also confuses me.   

I'm sure I've just misunderstood what he's saying, but I need help to figure this out.

Thanks,


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 10:42 am 
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Koa
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   The resonant frequency of the body cavity needs to be a major consideration for any builder. With C.F. Martin's afilliations in apprenticeship having such a heavy influence by the violin building community, there was always a directed concern for the relationship between the harmonic resonance and the actual generated note frequency tha was and is common to that craft community.

The great classic guitar builders always had a targeted resonant frequency for the body and it fell very closely to an F#. Alot of modern guitars seem to fall at G or G# and I believe it is more the result of maintaining the industry trends of dimension and sound hole diameters combned with the desire to build heavily enough to protect the standard lifetime warranties offered by most builders.

    Martin came to arrive at all of what have become the standard dimensions for their bodies through the simple prospect of trial and error over the course of more than 1 million guitars. Some who feel they are experts on Martins because they have read alot of books, have taken the factory tour a record number of times or have owned countless valuable guitars from the maker doubt the validity of the claim that Martin both tunes both their tops and their backs. Well, eeven though they don't actually take the time to "tune" or "voice" them on an individual basis now, they do rely on the dimensions derived from the painstaking research and development of those who could take that kind of time way back when hands were the primary tools and a huge order demand wasn't the primary pressure to produce. These experts assume that since Martin now cuts their braces out to predetermined finished dimensions and in production style gang fashion that they've always just used those scalloped dimensions and brace configurations. They don't realize, since they've never actually built a guitar for the most part, that the old time luthiers who worked the shop and actually contributed to the final tone of the instruments had a deep knowledge and understanding of the purpose and function of every component, its fabrication, grain orientation and relationship to the adjacent components.

   Many have claimed that the tuning of a back and its tuning relative to its counterpart...the top isn't a contributing factor to a guitar's tone, voice, resonance and volume. Talk to any skilled and knowledgeable violin, mandolin or archtop builder an you will find that we all share a resounding "Yes" when asked if the back's contribution to all of these facets of sound is considerable. That's precisely why they take the time to carve the back into careful graduated thickness as well as the top plate. Any flat top builder has come to terms with the dimensions of their back braces through trial and error and a keen consideration for the mass, weight and rigidity of the back and its braces as a unit. All three considerations are of key importance, not only to the integrity of the bcak, but to it contribution to the guitar's sound quality. It's dismissed as much less than tuning or voicing, but the purpose for the dimensions ends up being just that whether directly acknlowedged or not.

   I've always been of the belief that all of the major components of the body contribute to the guitar's tone and response. As we tune a body's final resonant frequency to a targeted note, we are making an effort to align the harmonic blanket with the note register in order to maximize the interaction between the two...or at least we should be. Wolf notes and what may apear to be standing frequencies in a guitar can be generated by any of several factors, but one that I believe is most likely to be the culprit is one that is most often overlooked by luthiers and that is the relationship between the harmonic blanket and the note register.

   For a very cool explanation of this relationship, take a look at this link to a video that every luthier should make a part of their library.

http://www.gourmet-guitars.com/video.asp?mofile=streu_tuning .mov

   I've watched as many builders have poured out math equasion after math equasion in very impressive displays of formula speculation to explain what they believe in their construction theory and methods, but it's never about numbers and formulas since the organic nature of each set of wood and the infinitely variable combinations possible as the components are married into a tone creating relationship that is the guitar, absolutes cannot be applied effectively and each instrument needs to be addressed as an individual effort in coaxing the woods to their tonal and response potential. Even sets of wood cut in sequential passes from the same log will present noticeable differences in tone and response so there are variables that can be overlooked in an effort to save time, too.

I've always been intrigued and puzzled byt the whole prospect of arriving at a predetermined resonant frequency for a body. I've built nearly 500 acoustic guitars and have really enjoyed getting familiar with what characteristics need to be achieved while tuning the indivual free plates of the top and back and then the effects of mating them with their sides nd closing it all with the binding to arrive at the target frequency for my particular body sizes, shapes and respective physical volumes.

   The research will never end and I will continue to closely document the myriad of parameters that are essential to possibly attaining close consistency across the board one day, but every guitar will always preent a new set of surprizes and rewards as it comes together and comes to life for a customer. The resonant frequency of my bodies will remain an observation for me. I love the mystique of the whole pursuit and I have no aspirations for becoming a small production shop so I can enjoy the luxury of entertaining it.

   I'm not disagreeing with any other builders who may feel that they aren't tuning their backs or body resonance, bit always wonder why it is that they carefully observe and closely adhere to their particular set of thicknesses and dimensions in their guitars.

Regards,
Kevin Gallagher/Omega GuitarsKevin Gallagher38724.7844791667


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 12:40 pm 
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[QUOTE=Kevin Gallagher] ...     Many have claimed that the tuning of a back and its tuning relative to its counterpart...the top isn't a contributing factor to a guitar's tone, voice, resonance and volume. Talk to any skilled and knowledgeable violin, mandolin or archtop builder an you will find that we all share a resounding "Yes" when asked if the back's contribution to all of these facets of sound is considerable. That's precisely why they take the time to carve the back into careful graduated thickness as well as the top plate. Any flat top builder has come to terms with the dimensions of their back braces through trial and error and a keen consideration for the mass, weight and rigidity of the back and its braces as a unit. All three considerations are of key importance, not only to the integrity of the bcak, but to it contribution to the guitar's sound quality. It's dismissed as much less than tuning or voicing, but the purpose for the dimensions ends up being just that whether directly acknlowedged or not.

   I've always been of the belief that all of the major components of the body contribute to the guitar's tone and response. As we tune a body's final resonant frequency to a targeted note, we are making an effort to align the harmonic blanket with the note register in order to maximize the interaction between the two...or at least we should be. Wolf notes and what may apear to be standing frequencies in a guitar can be generated by any of several factors, but one that I believe is most likely to be the culprit is one that is most often overlooked by luthiers and that is the relationship between the harmonic blanket and the note register.
Regards,
Kevin Gallagher/Omega Guitars[/QUOTE]


Kevin, well said...THANK YOU!

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"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 1:29 pm 
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Kevin, I like what you wrote a lot. The link does not work though and I'd love
to see the video.

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http://www.laurentbrondel.com/


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 1:55 pm 
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Koa
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Laurent,
   I'm not sure why the link doesn't start the video. Go to www.gourmet-guitars.com/experts.asp and click on the (video clip) tab under the photo of Benno Streu on the left side of the page. It will play for you then. You can also purchase the entire video from Gourmet Guitars.

   I'm hoping to establich a dealer relationship with them as my exclusive in Europe. I had a broker in Brussels that disappeared with four guitars that i've never received payment on so i'm hoping on starting over with the European market with a more established dealer with a good reputation.

Let me know if this works foryou to view the video,
Kevin Gallagher/Omega Guitars


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 2:29 pm 
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Kevin,

Thanks for your great comments above. THe adventure is truly in hunting for the grail not in finding! I am a novice guitar builder but a decent woodworker and have read a fair bit on guitars but ofetn stumble when it gets to these technical aspects of tuning. I can a little think that way! So, I agree with all that you say but am searching for the HOW one gets to doing this stuff. Not looking for short cuts just hoping to learn from those that have discovered things before us so we don't reinvent the same 'bumps in the road'. At nearly 500 guitars you are at a place where a lot of this, although foriegn to me, is second nature to you. I am hoping to get there some day and it will be from the genereous help of those like you!

So THANKS!

I am going to call Siminoff tomorrow and will post what he has to say on this stuff.

Shane

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 10:17 pm 
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[QUOTE=Kevin Gallagher]Let me know if this works foryou to view the video[/QUOTE]

Yes, fascinating! Even on my computer's speakers I could hear what he's talking about. Very, very good! Good luck with Europe.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 12:25 am 
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Cocobolo
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Kevin,

Not to be critical, but first you say that Martin is really taking all of this into consideration because over the years they have refined their standard sized components and then a bit later you say that there are no absolutes because every piece of wood is different.

I am confused We need to make up our minds.

By the way, this is not the only inconsistency I see in various discussions. For example, the concern that a bit of runout in a top will screw everything up and then discussions on how wonderful curly redwood tops (which are all extreme runout) Sound.

Makes me a very firm believer in smoke and blue lights

Grant


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 1:35 am 
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The video was wonderful. Thanks for posting that Kevin.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 1:44 am 
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[QUOTE=Grant Goltz] Kevin,

Not to be critical, but first you say that Martin is really taking all of this into consideration because over the years they have refined their standard sized components and then a bit later you say that there are no absolutes because every piece of wood is different.

I am confused We need to make up our minds.

By the way, this is not the only inconsistency I see in various discussions. For example, the concern that a bit of runout in a top will screw everything up and then discussions on how wonderful curly redwood tops (which are all extreme runout) Sound.

Makes me a very firm believer in smoke and blue lights

Grant[/QUOTE]

Grant, I am in no way qualified to speak of anything technical concerning guitar building but the inconsistency you mention is part of the magic of the whole discussion of something as elusive as vibrating woods and steel or nylon strings.

But if I understand Kevin's statement correctly Martin cannot apply the intuitive knowledge and feeling that their old world craftsmen could and did in order to create the bracing and wood types chosen today, but they DID at one time do exactly that. Not any more, because of production realities but their designs are based on sound old world guitar mojo, smoke, and blue lights.

[quote]I am confused We need to make up our minds.[/quote]

I think the whole point is we don't have to make up our minds - we just have to keep on exploring until the answer becomes the next question.

Larry

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[QUOTE=Grant Goltz]Not to be critical, but first you say that Martin is really taking all of this into consideration because over the years they have refined their standard sized components and then a bit later you say that there are no absolutes because every piece of wood is different.[/QUOTE]

I think what Kevin is trying to say is that Martin refined their specs. to the point where their production is very consistent, and that took a lot of time and skill, but that every piece of wood is different and adds characteristics that may, or may not, be exploited by the builder (obviously not in the case of mass-produced instruments). There is no denying that an OM-28, an OM-18, a 000-18, a 000-28, a D-18, a D-28 etc. all have a different sound and feel that we all recognize because of body size, tonewood, bracing, fret scale and many other major or minor differences. Now a small-scale builder will definitely want to exploit the unique characteristics of every piece of wood going into a single instrument. This is why every Martin is, I think, a good guitar (in a one-size-fits-all sort of way), but so few are exceptional, and probably every single guitar produced by an accomplished artisan is exceptional and will suit this or that player perfectly. But maybe Kevin will want to chime in and clarify.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 2:37 pm 
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Good post, Kevin, and even longer than some of mine!

I've long felt that the standard designs we have are, in many ways, very nearly optimal. That does not mean they are 'perfect', nor that they are in any sense 'efficient'. It does mean that when carefully built of good wood they work about as well as any guitar could, even if you can't take the time to 'tweak' them to take advantage of particular wood properties. That, coupled with the sort of material QC that Martin can do yields a fairly consistent product. That's my 'take' on what Kevin said about that.

I also agree to some extent with what he said about math. Although it's useful to see the equations run on hypothetical guitars using 'typical' wood, just to verify that the models are more or less right, you can't set much store by the exact numbers they will give you. If you think an understanding of math will allow you to predict how a particular guitar will sound when you get it done, you're fooling yourself, IMO. On the other hand, once you understand how the models work they can tell you a lot about what's going to change when you move the soundhole in a particular way, or change the relationship between the top and back tap tones. So it's probably not a bad idea to pay some attention to the math.

In the end, though, you just have to build the guitar.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 2:11 am 
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[QUOTE=Grant Goltz] Kevin,

Not to be critical, but first you say that Martin is really taking all of this into consideration because over the years they have refined their standard sized components and then a bit later you say that there are no absolutes because every piece of wood is different.


Grant[/QUOTE]

I too, at first, thought that this was inconsistant; but upon reflection, I don't think so. A great deal of a guitars sound is determined by the design. Kevin, seems to be pointing out that a lot of research went into these designs. Often the best advice to give to a new builder is to pick a plan and stick to it. When these new builders are done, they are often pleased and suprised at how good it sounds.

On the other hand, each piece of wood is different and no two guitars sound alike. Here is where the skilled luthier gets that certain extra something out of the instrument. They may use tap tuning, chladni patterns, or carefully controlling the relationship between the top and the back's resonant frequency. This one of the selling points of custom made guitars.

If you walk into a room with 10 Martin D-28s and played them all, two things would be true:
  1. They would all sound like Martin D-28s.
  2. They would all sound different from each other.



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 4:00 am 
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Grant,
   There's no inconsistency in my two comments at all and my mind is made up without question. Martin has refined the specs and dimensions that they have arrievd at through the building of more than a million guitars, but you'll have to pay a bit of attention to those guitars being made at Martin and in other large production houses and possibly to what was actually being said in my posts.

   Even though the braces are exactly them same from one guitar of a particular model to another of the same model with the same material being used for back and sides and tops, the guitars will vary in tone and response and volume, but will generally sound good overall. This is the benefit and result of having all of those guitars under the belt of any builder who wants to cross from the small shop addressing a smaller customer base with more personalized instruments to the production environment where the luxury of personalizing the guitar is no longer acceptable or affordable. With those hard earned and long established dimensions, Martin has been able to nail down consistently good signature tone even considering all of the variables presented by the individual pieces of wood being used from guitar to guitar. Wood will yield a generally predictable set of tonal offerings and this is why we know what we can generally expect from Rosewood and from Mahogany or From Koa...the key word being "generally". Pieces of wood cut sequentially from the very same log can yield noticeably diffeent resonant frequencies and response charachteristics, but they will still present to the builder what he has become familiar with as the tonal signature of that species or particualr type of cut. We get different tones from woods that are cut closer to and farther from a true quartersawn orientation, to so we get more familiar with those variables and are able to closely predict their ciontribution to the guitar's tone befor e we actually assemble it. It's all about the numbers and the amount of experience we have with the woods we deal with every day. I spend alot of time, as do most builders, flexing and tapping and handling the woods to get familiar with their resonance and tone.

   While pumping out several hundred guitars a day in Nazareth, we all repect and understand the variables that we hear the guitars if we undertand the woods and the production limitations that come with volume produced. I'm sure you, just like thousands of other players, have experienced the typical surprize as you work your way down a line of twenty d-28s at a Guitar Center or other larger store. Out of the twenty, several will be outstanding in volume, tone, repsonse and projection while a few others will fall slightly short of that being simply great. The majority of the other identically produced and assembled guitars with identical materials and appointments will have generally good tone thanks to the long years of trial and error of C.F. and his cohorts of old, but one or two might just seem like duds to you. It's just the nature of the production shop and their efforts to please such a large demand for their guitars and i love Martin guitars as much as any other instruments.

   Identical materials of equal quality since they are closely inspected prior to being used on any guitar and cut to dimensions within just a frw thousandths of one another, but slightly different ....and at times, radically different results.

   I didn't really understand your problem with the posts since I was pretty clear and others obviously grasped it easily.

Hope that helps a little,
Kevin Gallagher/Omega Guitars
Kevin Gallagher38727.5349652778


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 4:09 am 
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And now, time for a completely different view. I have read many accounts of tuning tops, backs and braces to specific notes, and have not found these notions useful in my work building and modifying guitars. It is my view that guitar balance can be achieved when the top and back are allowed to make ALL of the frequencies a guitar can produce, and at this point, specific body resonances fade into the overall sound. Of course, balance can also occur when there just enough dead spots to evenly dampen all of the sounds.

The brace shapes Martin used during its golden era have all been compromised by approximations and compromises needed to have a machine do the shaping. And some, completely forgotten. My background evolved out of studying guitars and their braces reshaped by Berkeley's Jon Lundberg, who "shaved" braces to bring out the sound of instruments played by the Dead and many other Bay Area musicians, in the 1960's through '80's. Lundberg duplicated Martin's earlier hand shaped curves, both on top and back braces. There were also problems, too much scalloping or dead strings. I bought a '37 Gibson Advanaced Jumbo Jon had worked on in 1977, and soon noticed a very quiet D string. Later, Jon said they were all that way, and nothing could be done about it.

When I evolved my theory of how and where each string makes its sound in a guitar in 1989, I was able to further modify top and back braces to bring the D up to full volume, enhance the treble, as well as overall volume and sustain.

Integral to my theory is the loudspeaker analogy mentioned above. My work reshaping braces and bridges on guitars by all of the major manufacturers and over a dozen individual builders has consistently confirmed the utility of analyzing why any given string or range is quieter than others using the loudspeaker analogy.

But first, consider how a loudspeaker works. When any specific frequency excites the coil in the cone center, the whole cone doesn't vibrate, a specific ring vibrates, one that resonates with the frequency. The higher the frequency, the smaller the diameter, and vice versa. It's why bottom end speakers have large diameters. I demonstrated this to myself in 1989, plucking different strings, and feeling the metal 10" cone of a Dobro with the cover plate removed.

In a lightbulb moment, it occurred to me that a guitar top works in the same way. Basically, if a brace has more mass than needed to support the string tension, it dampens the top where it is glued. Most top bracing patterns can be determined simply by gently percussing the top with the fleshy part of a finger. The braces sound like studs in a wall, and do not allow the top to vibrate to its full potential. The interaction of this pattern with the various rings generated by any and all notes on the guitar determine which notes are more, or less, impacted by dampening, affecting overall balance.

On a steel string guitar, the center of these rings is the crossing of the X brace. On a classical, the transverse brace below the soundhole forces the lower bout to operate independently of the upper, and the rings' center is in about the center of the bridge.

Braces permitting, the back can act to reinforce the top's vibrations, with the lower bout adding to the lows and mids, the upper, the mids. I have thinned and streamlined the lower two braces, greatly enhanced the bass end, and noticed that the Helmholtz frequency raised from an F# to a G#.

A more complete discussion can be found on my web site, vanlingeguitars.com., in the pages on "parabolic braceworks" and "bio and brace talk". I will be giving a workshop at the GAL convention this June in Tacoma.

I have seen many mathematical discussions, graphs and diagrams of how a guitar works. But none, for example, could tell why the F# (high E, second fret) was quieter than its neighbors on a Larrivee I worked on last year (that's, was).

Happy tapping...
   
Scott


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 4:30 am 
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[QUOTE=Scott van Linge]I have seen many mathematical discussions, graphs
and diagrams of how a guitar works. But none, for example, could tell why
the F# (high E, second fret) was quieter than its neighbors on a Larrivee I
worked on last year (that's, was).[/QUOTE]

Scott, your theories look intriguing, so do the parabolic braces! Would you
have recorded examples of guitars before and after your work? I know
recordings are pretty subjective, but if recorded with same player, room and
gear it should give a fairly precise idea. Your bracing looks good, for sure. I
am very curious.

_________________
Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 8:33 am 
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Laurent,

Good question. Most everyone and even some of their grandmothers have suggested the same before and after recordings. Not that it isn't a good idea. This will happen someday, when I have a guitar long enough to connect twice with the only local who has the proper recording equipment. Everyone wants theirs back soon.

Last spring, I even bought two Seagull dreadnoughts a friend/dealer assured me were identical in sound, so that I could not only record the difference, I could have an example of each. What a disappointment! Not only were they identical, they were the only completely balanced factory guitars I have ever seen! I could have improved either one of them, especially the response up the neck, which plinked out stock. But the fun my work puts in the playing is not recordable, and the B/A recordings wouldn't have sounded too different. Truly a case in which the deadening from crudely finished braces was spread out evenly throughout the frequency range, at least in the open positions. In disgust, I sold them both to a friend, wishing I had had enough money to buy two Martins...

Scott


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