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Colin,

I looked at that and the only problem that I see is that you need to detension your blade after every use. With that tensioning method you will be setting up your guides top and bottom with every use. The other method using a gauge you only have to check the guides.

You didn't read far enough.  Count, or measure, the revolutions when you loosen the tension.  Tighten back to same spot when tightening..  They claim that if you are using their blades, the size is close enough that you don't have to run the test again until you change brands.  That's what I got out of it, anyway.

_________________
Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

[QUOTE=WaddyT]You didn't read far enough.[/QUOTE]

That sounds like me!!!! LOL well I think I'll give it a try and also make that jig.

Thanks Waddy

I actually do tension by tone. I don't listen for a pitch, but for a clear tone. This indicates that you are in the middle of the blade's elastic range. Go a little looser or tighter and you will hear a loss of that resonant sound. Resawing may be an exception, though (you may need to go tighter for best results).

Tried a Griz blade a few years back. POS.

_________________
Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

[QUOTE=psl53]

Colin,

I looked at that and the only problem that I see is that you need to detension your blade after every use. With that tensioning method you will be setting up your guides top and bottom with every use. The other method using a gauge you only have to check the guides.

[/QUOTE]

No just always detention the blade by the same number of turns and go back to tension by applying that number of turns, works perfectly, no need to move the guides between blade changes.

Colin

_________________
I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

[QUOTE=Howard Klepper]
Tried a Griz blade a few years back. POS.[/QUOTE]

 

Dean, or anyone who is familiar with the Starett Blades Dean had mentioned. Where can I buy these blades?

Dean mentioned-"Equal to the Lenox carbide in quality is the Starrett, and less expensive. First time I've ever said that about Starrett. They have a 3/4" with a .035 kerf!"

Peace,Rich

     I always keep sanding belts and saw blades seperate for metal. For metal you should use a much higher TPI.

     Not that I cut metal that much!

_________________
Billy Dean Thomas
Covina, CA

"Multi famam, conscientiam, pauci verentur."
(Many fear their reputation, few their conscience)

The Manufacturer of the Timber Wolf blade contends that cutting Lexan is what probably did in my saw blade and that I should have used a bimetal blade.  I cut Lexan with my Grizzlys with no ill effect that I can tell.  Bummer!

_________________
A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

I'd like to know if anyone has used the Starrett blades and what model, the website has quite a few. Also I tried a few distributors in Colorado and they didn't have a clue about bandsaw or blades so if someone has dealt with someone "in the know" please post it here.

thanks

Peter

So far, I have tried:

Sears blade - 3/8" - 6tpi  - cut fine though rough - narrow kerf  .83mm
$14.99 mail order through Sears.

Timberwolf - 1/4" - 10tpi - seems very rough for a 10 tooth blade - lots of shredding on bottom of cut pieces.  Thin kerf  .86mm or so - price 14.95 - 70 1/4" blade.

Lennox custom welded - 1/4" - 6tpi - nice smooth cut - bigger kerf at 1.2mm roughly.  Same result with the 3/8 6 tooth blade.  Price of the lennox blades - between $8.00 - $9.00 for a 70 1/2" blade @ 6tpi.  Right now Lennox is at the top of my list.  I am going to order a couple of their narrow kerf blades for fine cutting (i.e. rosettes etc.).

_________________
Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

  Lenox not Lennox.

_________________
Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

[QUOTE=Dean]Equal to the Lenox carbide in quality is the Starrett, and less expensive. First time I've ever said that about Starrett. They have a 3/4" with a .035 kerf!

Dean
[/QUOTE]

Dean, where are you getting these. I priced a Lenox 1" woodmaster for $110 (144") The price I got for a 3/4" starrett was $295 and for a 1/2" $280. If you or anyone else has a better source please post it, I love to get a carbide for under $100.

Thanks

Peter