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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2005 10:00 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2005 12:19 pm
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Location: United States
any method whether it be with a router or jointer or shooting board and plane can result in the same tightness of joint. In question is not the matter of method used but whether mechanical means compress the wood as it is being jointed so that it would limit the ability of the wood on either side of the joint to be able to absorb glue to create a strong joint.

I understand the points made and see the logic of each of the methods but after having done alot of instruments using a jointer have only in the last year gone back to a shooting board and plane for the final edge.

The only thing that I have to base that on is that I took at the backs on 2 of my older instruments in which the backs had opened up, one with LMI white glue and the other that was done with hot hide glue. Both of backs were jointed using a jointer (I agree with john that with a well tuned jointer the joint can be perfect) but was surprised to see that in each case the split in the backs were clean with no wood coming with the joint. This made me rethink using a plane to prepare the final jointed edge.

Today I will get the edge closed to finished using a jointer but will then use a sharp well tuned plane (in my case a 14 inch long Norris jointer plane only because I love tools) and a shooting board. While I can not see a difference between a joint that was done by hand plane as opposed to power jointer I am hoping that it makes a difference and in another 30 years if I see an open back seam that the wood would have given out before the glueline.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2005 1:14 am 
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I just saw this post, sorry for not replying sooner.

Tim, based on something I recently heard about Stradivari tops, I soaked your tops in parafin as an experiment. That might be the problem. Sorry 'bout that.

Kidding....

No explanation. I avoid using hide glue for seam joints since I'm not fast enough to make it work right. I use LMI white.

I've only joined one of my redwood tops (1 down, 50 to go) and it glued up nicely.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2005 7:51 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2005 3:37 am
Posts: 2670
Location: United States
First name: John
Last Name: Mayes
City: Norman
State: OK
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
oh yeha for sure it is harder to set up a power jointer and get a good joint rather than using a nice well made hand jointer. I just like it only takes me a minute to joint the top, and back (course it takes a good chunk of time to set the jointer up) and be ready to roll. If the jointer is not set up right though it can make a mess of the procedure in a hurry, and be very frustrating to get right. Going slow and having a well set up jointer is key.

That said I find myself wanting to spend a few hundred bucks and get a nice hand jointer as I've only ever done 3-5 tops and backs that way... Thanks guys..you just cost me more money that I don't have..

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