Official Luthiers Forum!

The procedure is well defined on StewMac's web site here is the url

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Scrapers/1/Scraper_Burnish er/Instructions/I-3416.html#details

We're not getting much response about scraping spruce, so I guess I'll chime in with what I've read, but not from direct experience: People suggest using a squared edge on your scraper--no burr--for softwoods (I've heard glass is good for this, too). Also, I've read that on softwoods, it's best to scrape at an angle to the grain, and not either strictly parallel or perpendicular to it. It's slower-going this way, so maybe that's why many just go to sandpaper.

Scrapping Spruce, first have a good reason to scrap second have a sharp scraper, third work lightly dont try to hog. if confined to a small area 1/2" wide or less try a burnished razor blade with rounded corners. I prefer the heavy straight box or laminet cutter blades a apposed to the thin paint scraper type razor blades.

I agree with no burr for scraping spruce.Just square it up with file AND stone and be gentle. The one I use for softwoods has the corners relieved so that if I get careless with the arch, I avoid plowing those awful gouges. I have a Lee Valley scraper plane that is spruce friendly with the blade unarched,no burr and corners relieved.Skewed a bit to the length of the grain and again, gentle. I emphasized the stoning above because I have gone from file to wood with some little "teeth" left that scored the surface. If I were better at drawfiling I might not need to stone. Google "cian perez" for a hand tool site that has an eclectic mass of great technique articles from saws to planes to scrapers.

How do you wreck a water stone by finishing a scraper on it?? If any harm is done, can't you just lap it?

_________________
Guitars...One's too many...Twenty is not enough.

Sure you can. But lapping out a groove from honing the edge (remember,I'm talking about when you hold the scraper vertically to polish that little flat)uses up more stone than lapping after doing a few chisels or plane blades. I flatten my WS before I put them away,after every use unless I just took 6-10 very light swipes at a secondary bevel.I use a good oilstone for some things,including the edges of scrapers.Hard black for final licks.It is just my way of doing it.It isn't the only way.

[QUOTE=dubell] I have been thinking of buying a new scraper. The ones I have are from China and are cheap.....I think I payed $6 for 5 of them.

Is there a difference between cheap and expensive ones as far as quality?

Doug[/QUOTE]

From my experience...yes. Cheap scrapers dont work up a nice cutting bur and the bur doesnt last as long.

Cheers Martin

[QUOTE=BruceH] What thickness do you guys recommend, .60 mm or .80 mm?
[/QUOTE]

I use both but tend to use the 0.6 more than the 0.8mm most of the time.

[QUOTE=dubell] How do you wreck a water stone by finishing a scraper on it?? If any harm is done, can't you just lap it?
[/QUOTE]

With scraper edge youre applying alot of weight over a very small area. Its the same when youre sharpening very small chisels and you press too hard on same.

The other day I was scraping the sides with my Sandvik scraper, and
decided to pull the Hock blade out of my old Stanley #80 handled scraper
and try it. This blade is thick and much more rigid than the Sandvik. I was
impressed with how much extra power I felt I had with no more effort. I
think the flexibility in a normal handscraper requires a certain amount of
"wasted" effort to hold the curve when scraping firmly.

Then it occurred to me that a truly rigid handscraper would also make it
much easier to keep the sides true and flat. As you all know, you have to
be somewhat careful that the bend in a normal handscraper does not
create a wavy surface.

And finally, though the relatively small surfaces of a guitar do not usually
cause a heat problem, I suspect that the thicker blade would be less likely
to burn your fingers when vigorously surfacing larger areas.

As a consequence, I contacted Ron Hock to inquire about having a batch
of custom made thick handscrapers. He is very willing - if the price seems
reasonable I will post another message topic offering a group buy.

Anyone who has used a Hock plane or scraper blade knows they are
wonderful!

Regards,
Brook Moore
BrookM38786.4074652778

[QUOTE=BrookM]
As a consequence, I contacted Ron Hock to inquire about having a batch
of custom made thick handscrapers. He is very willing - if the price seems
reasonable I will post another message topic offering a group buy.
[/QUOTE]

Sounds like a fantastic idea. I'd be in for that.