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I use a go-bar deck in exactly the same fashion as Michael P.

Works great!

-Mark

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Pullman, WA

The more I know, the more I know I don't know.

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Terry, I am not meaning to be argumenitive but I can get glue down, top alligned via removable locator pin in the neck block and centerline pencil mark at the butt end of the rim, place on the ID OD caul and install 8-10 go-bars per-side in under a min. I-my self was never that quick with spools.

Now with a rig like you show in your earler post a min. may be possible because you have your lower spool indexers or female ends in place but with common spool clamps I don't beleive any one could bet a min. and have even clamping pressure

MichaelP, regarding "top alligned via removable locator pin in the neck block and centerline pencil mark at the butt end of the rim". How do you do this w/o leaving a hole showing in a top/back?

Using the radius dishes as clamping cauls is a great idea. Has anyone tried just putting some weight on them for clamping pressure instead of regular clamps? I would think a few bar-bell weights spread evenly would do the trick, wonder how much weight would be needed?

I read a post by someone who cuts a piece of 1/2" plywood the same size as the top/back, and glues 'flanged weatherstripping' around the perimeter, flange to the outside, and uses that as a clamping caul with a 'backer' on the other side to clamp. For those w/o radius dishes. This might work with some weights instead of clamps as well. Stacking several weights only takes a very few seconds.

Here's a link to a clamping 'press'. I read that Harmony used something like this for tops/backs with HHG.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/H5510

CrowDuck

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Chris Nielsen
Soquel, CA.

Thanks Terry, the spool clamps are attractive for laying out a copied shape from any guitar or act as a second mold, i will stay with go bars for glueing but will build me one of these for sure, looks pretty convenient!

Thanks again

Serge

Great thread BTW guys, really informative!

terken,

Yeah, I figured the top would be easy because of the fretboard area, but how about a back? Nothing to hide alignment holes there...........or is there? I'm always trying to learn.

CrowDuck

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Chris Nielsen
Soquel, CA.

terken,

Whilst I 'was away', I thought of the exact same procedure. Simple. Nice to know my mind is working correctly.

CrowDuck

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Chris Nielsen
Soquel, CA.

Nickton - "has anyone built their own radius dishes"

Yes, many do, it requires the right equipment, jigs, etc. not hard, however, I wanted to let you know that we have a number of OLF sponsors that sell these at whatever radius you desire. I purchased mine from one of our sponsors and am really happy. Not very costly and done correctly without question. Check them out!

Mike
White Oak, Texas

I clamp my tops and back like this .
The form has a 20ft radius in it which is in between my top and back radius, the black on the clamping form is a foam which comforms to the top/back under clamping pressure.
In use, I put all these studs into my mold apply the glue and top, drop the clamping form over the studs and put on a bunch of wingnuts.
Works pretting well. Oh I've also used an old bicycle inner tube infalted against the top, just one more option of the endless variety out there!
Good luck.
Jim_W38811.0231365741

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

Thanks again Terry for this great tip of the alignment pins, that was exactly what i should have known for my first!

Jim, love your set up too, very brilliant, since your clamping form was made with a radius such as this 20', you never have to worry, it'll match both 15' and 25' with that foam padding! Very clever!

Serge

THe only locator pin is in the top/neck block and is covered by the fretboard extension the lower bout is aligned by pencil mark and center seam. really pretty easy. This a new process since I have started tapering all braces to near zero at the lining. Before that I used the notches for the braces as my alignment tool.

NO at this time but I will shot some this weekend

[QUOTE=L. Presnall] [QUOTE=nickton] has anyone ever built their own radius dishes?[/QUOTE]

Oh, the DUST, the DUUUUUSSSSSTTTTTTT! [/QUOTE]

I plug the shop Vac into my Bosch router dust port. Go slow, no dust, or at least very little. If your router has no dust collection system well.....

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

another way is to super glue a small piece of wood, about the size a bit bigger then a piece of kerfing to the rims at the neck end and end block end just so that it touches the top or back. Fit the top or back and secure it with tape or clamps. Then drill a small hole through the top or back into the piece of wood and insert a finishing nail. After the top or back is glued remove the nail and chisel or knock off the piece of wood. No more misalignments this way.

[QUOTE=crowduck] ...but how about a back? Nothing to hide alignment holes there...........or is there[/QUOTE]
Some people use very small holes and pins in the area of the head/tail blocks that will be routed for binding/purfling.

[QUOTE=crowduck] Using the radius dishes as clamping cauls is a great idea. Has anyone tried just putting some weight on them for clamping pressure instead of regular clamps?[/QUOTE]
Yes, I've seen photos of just that procedure. The potential problem with using a radius dish as a caul is the variations from perfection that many of us experience when working with wood. You need to be sure that the clamping pressure is occuring exactly at the edges of the top/back and not somewhere else. Anytime I've read about or seen that sort of caul in use, it's been accompanied with a shim of some sort that matches the perimeter of the guitar, so any weight that is placed on the caul will distribute the pressure to where it's needed.

[QUOTE=CarltonM] [QUOTE=crowduck] Using the radius dishes as clamping cauls is a great idea. Has anyone tried just putting some weight on them for clamping pressure instead of regular clamps?[/QUOTE]
Yes, I've seen photos of just that procedure. The potential problem with using a radius dish as a caul is the variations from perfection that many of us experience when working with wood. You need to be sure that the clamping pressure is occuring exactly at the edges of the top/back and not somewhere else. Anytime I've read about or seen that sort of caul in use, it's been accompanied with a shim of some sort that matches the perimeter of the guitar, so any weight that is placed on the caul will distribute the pressure to where it's needed.[/QUOTE]

Looks like the caul that Jim Watts uses in the picture above would work with weights. Or a clampin press like this:

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Chris Nielsen
Soquel, CA.

[QUOTE=crowduck] [/QUOTE]Looks like the caul that Jim Watts uses in the picture above would work with weights. Or a clampin press like this:
[/QUOTE]
Yes, as long as the foam is stiff enough to make good contact along the edges, while holding the center of the caul off the top/back. The screw press would work, but you'll probably need more than one, or some additional clamps/weights at the ends to assure uniform pressure all around. Jim's wing nut system guarantees equal pressure. Go-bars would also work.

Or perhaps some of these veneer press clamps.

CrowDuck

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Chris Nielsen
Soquel, CA.

Chris, this looks a bit like the Hoffman's set up if my memory serves me well?

Larry,
I'll give you a good deal on the shipping, I promise Send me a PM.
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