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I would also say feed your WAS. The Tormek is tempting, but $400 can buy some really nice wood.

I always use a guide when I sharpen both chisels and blades. I find that when I try to free-hand it, I end up with a rounded edge.

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53% of all statistics are made up on the spot
http://driftwoodguitars.blogspot.com/

Well I have more zoot (thanks to Bob) than I can stand at the moment, and now I have the Veritas MkII power sharpener that Lee Valley sells, and while Mike still may have sharper tools than I do, I spend very little time (and I have little time to spare) keeping them sharp enough to execute the needed cuts in my zoot.

I am an happy camper!John How38910.5573032407

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Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.

Glass, sandpaper (top quality, down to 2000 grit), Veritas jig. Scary sharp. Quick. Easy. Never seen the need for a powered system.

Check out the tips in issue 184 of Fine Woodworking.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Hold on here. I'm arrogant, but not enough to lay claim to the sharpest tools around. And I have never denigrated an LV product -because I've never gotten anything from them that was disappointing. I was trying to send the OP to a world of alternatives. The Tormek is not the only or final answer.Power is not the only solution. A reliable, comfortable jig of some sort takes out some variables for most people(1/3).Abrasives that one is comfortable with is a possible ingredient(1/3)Experience/practice(1/3)Characteristics of the tools to be honed(1/3,ha)more factors.Range of use of the edged tool(1/3 ha-ha). OK-the ubiquitous desert island;my chisels and planes and saws? "Oilstones -long and wide-in various grits,jigs from scrap firewood(or totally freehand,which, on my honor, I really can do)spit,patience."Humbly, your o'bdt svt, Mike Tobey, Esq.

Hi Mike, I likewise didn't mean to sound like I thought you were as "ornery as you sometimes seem to be", I was just pokin' fun but my time seems to be in short supply so there lies my shortcoming. I'd rather cut wood than sharpen a chisel. Happy whitlin.

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Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.

FWIW I have been reading up on the Scary Sharp system and an "updated" version.

For those unfamiliar the modified version suggests either marble tile or a type of flat stone from a chef or baking supply store (insted of glass) and six to eight grades of sandpaper.

An adjustable jig for achieving and maintianing the correct angle on the tool for your edge.

It also incorporates stroping with charged leather and polishing compounds to suit your needs.

They sound equally capable but one is cheaper and takes more elbow grease.

Interesting, Scooter. I've been doing that for some time now, except I use a 9X12" granite plate. Even though it was one of those inexpensive Chinese-made plates, it's dead-flat according to all my straight edges. If I'm lapping a new blade, or changing the bevel angle on an old one, I'll start with 120 or 150 grit paper, going up to 2000 grit (with every grit I've got in between), then strop with very fine compound. I've got various jigs (eclipse-style, Stanley, the first Veritas--each has its strengths and weaknesses) for a straight bevel, and I've been practicing a free-hand, purposely rounded bevel on some chip-prone chisels. A rounded bevel does help to maintain the edge longer, but it's difficult to achieve without either rounding or missing the edge on the higher grits. It's still a skill-in-progress for me!

Here you go Hesh:

Scary Sharp Method

It's actually quite a good and humorous read as well.

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I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...

Thanks Al buddy, sure will help!

Hesh, I have an acquaintance from work that is a blade meister. This guy used to make custom knifes that would/will hold an edge like you can't believe. Beautiful and deadly pieces of art.    Heated and tempered his own steel and all that jazz. He says to pull it towards you (away from bevel). I listen to what he says...

Jeez, I thought you actually enjoyed my rapier wit!    Alain Desforges38911.95125

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I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...

Always, always, ALWAYS pull towards you(away from the blade's edge). If you push the edge into the abrasive, it bunches up, albeit just a hair, in front and dulls yuor edge. It's not something you can see, but it's there. Even a hard diamond "stone" will dull an edge if you push into it. Always pull...

Some folks can get the hang of sharpening, and for them, simple works well. Others never do get the hang of it, and for them, a Tormek or similar system is what works. Same as some folks can carve braces all day with one chisel, while other need to use various planes to acheive the same result.

Sharp tools are of utmost importance; use what works for you! The method doesn't matter, the result does.

for what it is worth- I think of pulling a blade as a productive part of honing when-taking last stroke on the back of the blade on the finest abrasive I use before stropping.Stropping. In each case I think I am trying to remove the smallest wire edge possible, as left by the previous step.MT( If I am working a new bevel with a jig on a coarse abrasive, I do apply pressure on forward and return stroke, but I only use pressure on the forward stroke in the honing stage as above).

looking forward to see that also Todd, thanks!

Serge

Does anyone use that Makita waterstone sharpener.   I have one and it is very fast and very good. I really like Japanese waterstones and this one is motorized and fast, and since it is in water it keeps that fine edge from overheating and losing its temper (I think that may be a problem with non watered stones) and it is fairly cheap.