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Sylvan also has a super slick radiusing jig. I might have to make me one of those...

Check it out HERELanceK38987.5076967593

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

[QUOTE=Don Williams]For those who like a great package deal, John Watkins is making fretboards with alignment holes that will work perfectly with his cnc'd necks. They're pre-slotted and arched and ready to go.[/QUOTE]

Not only that, BUT John is also doing this faux binding deal where his slots stop short of the sides giving the impression that it is bound....

he can EVEN cut a channel for purfings, so it looks bound and purfled (is that word?).

He is doing some cool stuff with that machine.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

J. Brown, here's the link for the plans dude

http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6047& KW=My+new+fretboard+radius+fixture#forumTop

Just check further down the page, Al posted links for the plans Serge Poirier38987.5308796296

[QUOTE=terken] Do you do it before or after you cut the taper.
TJK[/QUOTE]

Good question Terry! I was thinking the same thing myself. It seems like it would be better to radius before tapering, but I'd like to hear from those who have done it.

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

I slot, then radius, then taper.

My tapering method is different than most people's. I tried the table saw method, but had two problems. One, it took a frustrating amount of time to get the jig set up in precisely the right spot. Second, I would occasionally get a small chip out, particularly on brittle woods like ebony.

So I switched to the low-tech route, and it goes much faster with no problems. I just draw a line on the fretboard where the taper will go, rough cut on the bandsaw, and clean it up with a handplane. It takes three or four minutes at the outside, which is less time than it took me to set up the table saw jig.

If your means of indexing is set up to maintan the position of the FB I dont think it would mater if it was already tapered. You just have to have a way to insure the centerline of the radius in relationship to the centerline of the FB

Kelby, my tapering jis is nothing more than a sled that rides in the tablesaws slot. Cut the top a little oversize and run it through the blade. Now the edge is where your cut will be so just line your marks on the fingerboard up with the edge and run her through. Piece-o-cake!

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

I do like Kelby except for the taper which a few OLF'ers suggested i'd do, i cut my taper on a sled and on the bandsaw and then i sanded the edges of the fretboard on a long stip of sandpaper next to a straight fence and had the bottom of the fretboard against it if that makes any since!