Thanks for posting the correct method!
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| LMI binding Laminator http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=10333 |
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| Author: | bob J [ Fri Jan 12, 2007 12:03 am ] |
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Has anyone use the LMI binding laminator for wood? It only talks about plastic. |
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| Author: | crowduck [ Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:51 am ] |
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I don't think it is designed to work with wood. I believe the operating principle is that it uses acetone to sort of melt pre cut plastic binding strips together under some pressure. It 'might work' if laminating plastic to wood using acetone, but I don't think wood to wood would work unless using some sort of fast setting CA glue. Part of the 'trick' is that acetone evaporates/drys very quickly. CrowDuck |
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| Author: | bob J [ Sat Jan 13, 2007 2:29 am ] |
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What if you used med. dry Cryn.? |
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| Author: | npalen [ Sat Jan 13, 2007 1:43 pm ] |
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Bob--I used to try using the laminator with acetone for making up ABS binding/purlin and it was always a messy pain. What works much better for me is two thin straight edges clamped to a bench or anything flat. Let one of them lap over the edge just a little so clamps can be placed across the straightedges every few inches. Lay the strips in between and then place these clamps making sure that the strips are tight down against the surface. For plastic use acetone in a pipette and just run it along the seam letting it capillary down in. For wood use thin CA with the same approach. A strip of wax paper under one straightedge and against the other keeps the adhesive at bay. Nelson |
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| Author: | Dave Rickard [ Sun Jan 14, 2007 10:48 am ] |
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I'm having a hard time visualizing this. Can you elborate? |
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| Author: | npalen [ Sun Jan 14, 2007 1:58 pm ] |
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Dave--I have some pics of this setup around somewhere and will try to find them. Think of two 36" straightedges laying on a flat surface spaced about 5/16" apart. A piece of binding, say, .090 x .250 x 36" laying flat and a piece of purflin about .040 x .090 x 36" laying on edge and up against the binding. Clamp this sandwich between the two straightedges so that the seam to be bonded is making good contact. The straightedges will try to buckle up away from the flat surface so a few small clamps holding them down are needed. Does this help? I know, a picture is worth a thousand words. Nelson |
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| Author: | bob J [ Mon Jan 15, 2007 1:22 am ] |
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Thanks for posting the correct method!
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| Author: | npalen [ Mon Jan 15, 2007 3:18 am ] |
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Surely, I'm not the only one using this method? Nelson |
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| Author: | npalen [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 5:04 am ] |
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Would enjoy hearing how some of you folks do your binding laminations. Nelson |
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| Author: | Brad Goodman [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 5:25 am ] |
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Bob, I use a very low-tech method: I simply spread yellow glue on the purfling and lightly clamp the purfling with small clamps-works perfectly! Nelson, My method for laminating ABS binding is to simply apply the cement to the binding and press the purfling on. I wear surgical gloves so the cement doesn't get on my hands.I keep pressing with my fingers until the glue grabs. I use the LMI cement in the blue tubes. When dry,I scrape the purfling flush with the binding. One of the reasons this works very well for me is that I rip my own binding from sheets,so they are flat-this won't work as well if the binding was rolled up for shipping. |
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| Author: | bob J [ Tue Jan 16, 2007 11:35 pm ] |
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Thanks guys! |
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| Author: | CarltonM [ Wed Jan 17, 2007 7:35 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Brad Goodman] I simply spread yellow glue on the purfling and lightly clamp the purfling with small clamps-works perfectly![/QUOTE] Brad, I've read of others doing this too, but when I tried making a top-purfling/binding sandwich (wood) with small clamps I ended up with a well-bonded, wavey, lumpy mess. I used spring clamps, and they may have exerted too much pressure. What do you use? Anybody else? |
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