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Problem:Glue in fretslots when binding
http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=10680
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Author:  JohnAbercrombie [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 8:56 am ]
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I've been binding a few fingerboards this week - boards are slotted but not yet attached to necks.
Binding is fiber+wood.
I'm having problems with CA glue running into the end of the fret slots-not all of them, but it's difficult to get enough CA run in to attach the binding properly without having it run into the slot ends.

Help!
1)Has anybody else found a solution to this problem after it happens? What's the best way to clean cured CA out of the slots without releasing the binding?

2)Should I be using a different adhesive, or different technique?
PU is out because it will foam into the slots.
Perhaps Titebond-type?
Thanks

John

Author:  af_one [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:01 am ]
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I have the same problem with titebond--I'm very interested in the responses

Author:  Bob Long [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:12 am ]
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John, I use Titebond or LMI's white glue. I've found that Exacto blades are
just a hair narrower than the fret slots. I just clean out the slots with the
back side of an old dull blade. This won't help of course if the glue is
already hard.

Long

Author:  Dave White [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:18 am ]
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I use titebond and binding tape and clean it out of the slots with a small knife blade/cotton buds after a few minutes. For most of the board you can use the binding tape inbetween frets which gives you clear access. For the upper ones I peel back the tape, clean and put the tape back and move on.

Haven't done it but I've read abouut others using small dental burrs in Dremels to clean out the slots.

Author:  JJ Donohue [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:21 am ]
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Stewmac makes a hooked blade that fits an exacto handle and fits perfectly in the slots. It's the "bee's knees". I get the glue out completely and easily with this tool.

Author:  PaulB [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:51 am ]
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I modified a stanley knife blade to do this. I ground it so that it fits into a exacto handle and has a chisel point.

Stanley knife blades are a perfect fit for slots cut with Shane's fret slotting blade.

Author:  Arnt Rian [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:55 am ]
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I made a tool similar to the Stewmac one from an old jigsaw blade. 5 minutes on a bench grinder and a couple of turns of tape around it for a handle, and voila! Al Carruth once mentioned that he inserts pieces of plastic from six pack holders into the fret slots to keep the glue out, he said it was just the right size. Not sure what type of glue he said he used, I imagine this would not work so well with CA. I use CA glue, but as little as possible and clean out any glue build-up with the hook tool.

Author:  TonyKarol [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:58 am ]
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Another trick I heard from Josh House I think, who learned it at DeJonges course was to heat the stew mac blade, use a soldering iron or something - it will melt the titebond out easily. I usually just force it out with the SM blade though. Trick is not to use too much glue !!! I only get three or four spots to clean up if any. Since I pretty much dont use the plastic tortoise anymore, CA is not required.

Author:  Pwoolson [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 10:43 am ]
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Charles Fox used to use compressed air to blow it out when he got the binding all situated. He'd hold a rag just over the slot and blast it with air. They ended up clean as can be.

Author:  David R White [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 11:01 am ]
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I have to jump in and support the Stewmac tool. It's cheap, fits a slot perfectly, has a nice hook on it but it's not too sharp. The right tool for the job.

Author:  JohnAbercrombie [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 11:12 am ]
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Thanks, everybody!
I appreciate all the responses.
Now, I've got a few 'new arrows in the quiver' so to speak.

The combination of Titebond for more working time and the ideas here should do the trick.

Thanks again.

John

Author:  Todd Rose [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:15 pm ]
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[QUOTE=Pwoolson] Charles Fox used to use compressed air to blow it out when he got the binding all situated. He'd hold a rag just over the slot and blast it with air. They ended up clean as can be. [/QUOTE]

What kind of glue, Paul?

Thanks.

Author:  Todd Rose [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:23 pm ]
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[QUOTE=Arnt]   Al Carruth once mentioned that he inserts pieces of plastic from six pack holders into the fret slots to keep the glue out, he said it was just the right size. Not sure what type of glue he said he used, I imagine this would not work so well with CA.[/QUOTE]

I thought Al said he cut strips from coffee can lids. I've been saving powdered baby formula can lids (got more than enough of those these days) for this purpose, but haven't tried it yet.

I've used the heated knife method (learned it from Serge de Jonge) and it works very well. Still, I'd rather keep the glue out of there in the first place.

I'm intrigued by the compressed air method, too...

Author:  Jim Watts [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:34 pm ]
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I use .022 strips of teflon in the fret slot, the CA doesn't stick to it and this has pretty much solved the problem for me.
I bought some sheet stock and cut the strips from that.

Author:  Pwoolson [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:43 pm ]
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[QUOTE=Todd Rose] [QUOTE=Pwoolson] Charles Fox used to use compressed air to blow it out when he got the binding all situated. He'd hold a rag just over the slot and blast it with air. They ended up clean as can be. [/QUOTE]

What kind of glue, Paul?

Thanks.[/QUOTE]
Thin CA.

Author:  Darrel Friesen [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 1:30 pm ]
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That little fret cleaning saw that Stew Macs sells is excellent as well for cleaning glue out or deepening a slot on a bound board.

Author:  Rod True [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 2:09 pm ]
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[QUOTE=Pwoolson] Charles Fox used to use compressed air to blow it out when he got the binding all situated. He'd hold a rag just over the slot and blast it with air. They ended up clean as can be. [/QUOTE]

Paul, this is one of those "Duh, why didn't I think of that" moments.

Brilliant. That's my ticket next time around.

Thank you.

Author:  Serge Poirier [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 2:35 pm ]
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I use Titebond, an exacto knife heated on a hot pipe to clean the little amount that makes it's way in the slots.

Author:  JohnAbercrombie [ Thu Feb 01, 2007 6:31 pm ]
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I went back to the shop and tried the compressed air trick with the CA. It works like a charm! Thanks, Paul.
One note- if you find CA fumes irritating (as I do- I use a fan and good ventilation) the air blow gun will increase the vapour load, so be forewarned.

The various knife/saw solutions will be applied to the boards that have some CA residue.

Thanks to everybody!

John

Author:  Mark Hanna [ Fri Feb 02, 2007 1:10 am ]
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On a really stubborn glue in the slot problem, I modified a cutter in my dremel, to be undersized from the slot, and carefully rout the glue out. Works great!

Author:  JohnAbercrombie [ Fri Feb 02, 2007 3:17 am ]
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[QUOTE=Mark Hanna] On a really stubborn glue in the slot problem, I modified a cutter in my dremel, to be undersized from the slot, and carefully rout the glue out. Works great![/QUOTE]

Mark-
You have a router bit that is in the .020 inch range that you modified yourself?
Nothing in my collection of dental burrs, etc is even close to that. Where did you get the cutter and how did you modify it?
Thanks
John

Author:  Pwoolson [ Fri Feb 02, 2007 4:00 am ]
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Something like this,
Micro Burrs, will have the size you need. You can find these reconditioned burrs at a lot of sources.

Author:  Steve Saville [ Fri Feb 02, 2007 6:17 am ]
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I use LMI white or Titebond. The trick is to use just enough glue to wet the surface with almost no squeeze out. If you are filling the slot with glue, try using a lot less glue. I don't have to clean out the slot.

Author:  JohnAbercrombie [ Fri Feb 02, 2007 7:23 am ]
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[QUOTE=Pwoolson] Something like this,
Micro Burrs, will have the size you need. You can find these reconditioned burrs at a lot of sources. [/QUOTE]
Thanks, Paul
HF don't ship to Canada by any economical means, but I phoned DrillBitCity (recommended- they are on the web) and some router bits are on the way via USPS.

Back to the shop to find a fresh problem!
John

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