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| Fret Press Arbor and Fretting (Pics) http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=10933 |
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| Author: | gozierdt [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 12:34 pm ] |
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Hesh, That looks like a very nice tool, and a quick fretting process. Do you experience any bowing of the fretboard from fretting before the fretboard is supported by the neck? |
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| Author: | Dave Anderson [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 12:45 pm ] |
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That's a very nice arbor you got there Hesh. Thanks for the tutorial.I have a block of wood with numbered holes for the frets,like you mentioned .It is just a little faster I think that way.I've been hammering my frets so far but plan to press em with my drill press on my current build. Those look like great fretboards from John W. 
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| Author: | Rod True [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 12:47 pm ] |
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That's for the tut bud. I like it all. |
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| Author: | crowduck [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 1:25 pm ] |
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Very nice tutorial!! I'm sold. Regarding back bow, Rick Turner inlays carbon fibre strips into the bottom of fretboards to deal with it, as well as providing extra stiffnes to the neck unit. It's also a good idea to clamp the fb fretside down onto a flat workbench with a good flat caul overnite. CrowDuck |
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| Author: | Blain [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 1:44 pm ] |
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Thanks for posting this Hesh. A very nice tutorial on pressing frets. I was also thinking about purchasing this arbor (Actually I made up my mind to purchase it as soon as I can), and it's good to hear that you are happy with yours. It helps to know that it's a good choice. Thanks again for the Helpful post! |
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| Author: | RobertJeffery [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 1:52 pm ] |
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Your gig making ability out strips mine by a touch. 
Otherwise a great tutorial! I was going to buy a hammer and go "olde skuwl" but that arbor press looks like the way to go! Thank you! Robert |
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| Author: | WalterK [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 2:15 pm ] |
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Hi Tesh Thank you very much for the preview of your fret job. I REALLY APPRECIATE you taking the time for us po folk that must use the old method for now. Hopefully soon I will save up enough to purchase. You're one heck of a swell guy to share like you do!! walter 
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| Author: | JohnAbercrombie [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 3:29 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=fmorelli] Okay, Hesh, I give up ... how are you slotting your fingerboard, partially? Filippo[/QUOTE] Filippo- You don't have to buy a finished fingerboard or use CNC to get the type of board Hesh is using. It's just a regular fingerboard (cut narrower) bound with ebony after slotting. There are some tricks to keeping the glue out of the slots, but otherwise it's not very difficult. In fact, binding with plain ebony makes it easy to hide mistakes, so it's probably the easiest type of fingerboard binding to do. Cheers John |
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| Author: | Bob Garrish [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 4:31 pm ] |
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You could also, with an accurate jig, make the slots the same way we do on CNCs - small end mill. |
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| Author: | DannyV [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 4:48 pm ] |
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Thanks for the great photos and tutorial. That looks like a nice set-up. Can you use the press with the fingerboard glued on? Or at least the first 10 or 12? Looking great as usual and will look forward to see what it goes on! 
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| Author: | Alain Desforges [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 7:59 pm ] |
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Right on Hesh! That's a very nice set-up you have there. That FB is looking pretty sweet as well. Now quick! Just 19 more to go! 
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| Author: | microsmurf [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:04 pm ] |
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Hi Hesh, thanks for the write up! Do you use any glue for the frets, or do you just press it in? |
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| Author: | Dave Anderson [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 11:22 pm ] |
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Hesh, What size fretwire do you use?Is that Stew-Mac wire? TIA |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Thu Feb 15, 2007 12:20 am ] |
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Hesh, I noticed something your doing wrong, I ALWAYS start with the first fret, so I dont lose count
I COULD NEVER GO BACKWARDS!
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| Author: | Serge Poirier [ Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:40 am ] |
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Great tutorial as always Hesh bro! Quality work everywhere with quality pics!
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| Author: | Homeboy [ Thu Feb 15, 2007 2:43 am ] |
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Anybody who wants to buy the stew-mac press should take a look around and try to find an arbor press for less. I know that MSC sells them look here http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1802568&PMT4NO=1 8255175 You could just buy the caul from stew mac for 50 bucks and this arbor press for 55 bucks and come out 50 bucks less than the stew-mac system. All one would need to do then is drill a hole in the arbor press to accept the caul from stew-mac. Blake |
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Thu Feb 15, 2007 3:05 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Hesh1956] ...I have glued frets and not glued frets and my jury is still out. Some glue as a lubricant which makes sense to me but adding moisture like Titebond does not make sense to me. In Mario's article I think that he says that he adds a tiny bit of HHG which does make sense to me - just wish I knew his technique which was not detailed in the article in Guitarmaker. [/QUOTE] Hesh...There's probably more water in HHG than Titebond. I believe the rationale behind the use of HHG is to swell the kerf and hold the tang tighter as well as to secure the fret from the glue itself. The technique of using HHG should be similar...you just need to work faster. For me, I've used LMI white on 5 FB's and see no problems. Terry...I like your rationale of starting fret installing at the soundhole end. |
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