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Redwood Redo (pics)
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Author:  LarryH [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 2:51 am ]
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I posted a couple of pics of my redwood top after a first coat of Z-Poxy finish and thought the color was a little dark and dingy. It was not the darkness that looked bad to my eye but it actually looked kinda dirty in the darkest areas. The last picture in the previous post shows the closest to the
Previous Color

I knew I wanted to sand it a bit to touch it up but themore I sanded the more the red and brilliant silking started to come out so I kept sanding. I used 400 grit and steel wool to not go too far but as I progressed the darker areas lightened up and it took on a kinda 3D look with the silking.

NONE of the pictures really show the before or after that accurately and today I was able to take pics with the sun directly on the top, so both lighting conditions were quite different, but the difference in the look is a lot different. More even and a deeper, richer color.

Oh and most important, I think, is that I used a waterborne finish (Crysta-Lac) after the Z-Poxy and sanding to keep the tone on the brighter side.

My main purpose for posting this is to let you all know what the effect of the process described above could have on your redwood, or I suppose WRC tops as well.

Hope it helps someone



Author:  Cocephus [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 2:58 am ]
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Attaboy Larry!
Lookin` really nice.
Coe
Author:  DannyV [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 3:12 am ]
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Beautiful!!    You gotta be pretty happy with that.
Author:  Steve Saville [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 3:12 am ]
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Larry,
It looks beautiful. I love that redwood.

Two questions -

1) Why did you use Zpoxy on the top? I think of Zpoxy as a pore filler and didn't think redwood needed it.
2) How do you like the CrystaLac?
Author:  LarryH [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 4:04 am ]
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[quote]Two questions -

1) Why did you use Zpoxy on the top? I think of Zpoxy as a pore filler and didn't think redwood needed it.
2) How do you like the CrystaLac? [/quote]

For me Epoxy does a couple of things, it fills pores but it also POPS the grain and adds an amazing depth to most woods - much more than shellac. I also like the way it adds a durable skin to softer tops. When taken back to almost nothing with 0000 steel wool it creates a hard, almost polished feel. So I thought that this redwood top would look killer with the ZPoxy - didn't test first.

I think you'll find that some people use epoxy even on their spruce tops - just personal preference.

I have used store bought urethane, liked it, KTM-9, did not like it, and now Crysta-Lac. Recommended by a board member on a long ago post (Thanks).

It seems much harder than KTM and easier to sand and flatten. I actually gave up on my KTM finish as I kept sanding through to the epoxy and just left a couple of spots unpolished - way frustrating.

Haven't polished the Crysta-Lac yet but have a pretty good feel about it. I'll post some pics but that's a ways off.
Author:  Steve Saville [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 4:45 am ]
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Larry,
Thanks for that explanation.
I have used CrystaLac for 4 guitars, 3 satin and one gloss. It polishes out nicely.

I used KTM9 once and will not use it again.
Author:  Lillian F-W [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 5:01 am ]
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Where do you get CrystaLac?
Author:  LarryH [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 5:02 am ]
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[QUOTE=SteveS] Larry,
I have used CrystaLac for 4 guitars, 3 satin and one gloss. It polishes out nicely.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for sharing your experience with Crysta-Lac. I'll proceed with confidence.
Author:  LarryH [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 5:07 am ]
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[QUOTE=Aoibeann] Where do you get CrystaLac?[/QUOTE] McFeely's has it.
Author:  Steve Kinnaird [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 5:52 am ]
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Ooooweee, that's pretty!

That compliments the Bloodwood perfectly.

Steve
Author:  CarltonM [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 6:27 am ]
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Whoa! Nice!!! We're gonna have to start callin' that one the "Red Devil!"
Author:  Lillian F-W [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 6:43 am ]
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Thanks
Author:  Dave Rector [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 8:09 am ]
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Larry, it looks great! From your other thread I can see why you sanded it back and started over. In one of the pictures you posted it seemed to look more splotchy.
I assume that's why you started over.

Anyway, it sure looks nice now. Great job!
Author:  peterm [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 8:47 am ]
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Larry, it sure looks great!!
Author:  LarryH [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 11:22 am ]
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[QUOTE=Dave Rector] Larry, it looks great! From your other thread I can see why you sanded it back and started over. In one of the pictures you posted it seemed to look more splotchy.
I assume that's why you started over.

Anyway, it sure looks nice now. Great job! [/QUOTE]

Thanks Dave, and the reason for the post was that I didn't really start over. I just lightly sanded back to reveal a little lighter wood and more contrast between the dark and light sections of the silking. I don't think it would lok as nice without the first 'error' of the ZPoxy. o
Author:  Dave Rector [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 11:38 am ]
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[QUOTE=LarryH]the reason for the post was that I didn't really start over. I just lightly sanded back to reveal a little lighter wood and more contrast between the dark and light sections of the silking. [/QUOTE]

Duh...

I totally missed that. Thanks for clearing that up Larry. At least for me, don't think anyone else was that confused by it.
Author:  Lillian F-W [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 12:00 pm ]
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The difference a real monitor makes! On the laptop there really wasn't a difference between the before and after. Seeing it on a real monitor, WOW! I really like what you are doing. Make more "errors" like that.
Author:  Chris Cordle [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 12:16 pm ]
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Stunning top Lar!

I hope my redwood comes out nearly this nice.
I noticed tonight that my top looks a little dirty or splotchy.
I still have to sand with 220 yet so we'll see what I end up with.

Please keep us posted with pics. I'm watching this one with special interest
Author:  LarryH [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 1:22 pm ]
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Chris, I would advise you take the top down to 400 grit sandpaper or even 0000 steel wool. It will begin to acquire a sort of sheen and the darker areas that you see should begin to disappear especially under finish.

I don't know if you read that first thread but it seemed like the darkest, dingiest area was the area I did not feel I could sand to such a fine grit as I had already blown through the rosette. My theory is that the finer the grit the less 'open' the grain and the less likely that area will over saturate and form a dark spot.

Also the oil base epoxy will give you one look and the water base finishes another - test it first on your top.

In this case I'm glad to have errored as I said because the combination is really nice.
Author:  Chris Cordle [ Fri Feb 16, 2007 3:49 pm ]
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Thanks for the tips Larry,

If you may remember, I have already blown through my rosette and touched
it up to my satisfaction. I will have to tread lightly or I will be back at square
one and trying to fix my rosette again. Maybe I could mask off the rosette
and sand the rest? Not sure what kinds of trouble that may present.
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