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| help with inlay fill shadow http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=11059 |
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| Author: | peterm [ Thu Feb 22, 2007 5:18 pm ] |
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I just had an inlay redone and the area left from another inlay was filled with ebony dust and CA. Now there is a visible "shadow" on the headplate next to the new inlay. I thought the finish would conceal this but it doens't seem to help... 
Anyone have a way to help this issue? Thanks 
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| Author: | russ [ Fri Feb 23, 2007 12:22 am ] |
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Peter, The filled routing is quite noticeable. If it were me, I think I would jut replace the headplate...Sorry I don't have a better idea for ya!
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| Author: | peterm [ Fri Feb 23, 2007 2:19 am ] |
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There is no finish on the headstock now... I thought about dying the headstock but I'm afraid to get it on the bindings.
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| Author: | GregG [ Fri Feb 23, 2007 2:31 am ] |
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Hi Peter, Have you tried to lightly/carefully sand the shadow, sometimes that seems to really help when using CA and dust on ebony. Greg |
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| Author: | Irwin R [ Fri Feb 23, 2007 4:13 am ] |
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Don't mean to be nosy..but did you have this done by someone else and they sent it back to you this way?
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| Author: | Irwin R [ Fri Feb 23, 2007 4:15 am ] |
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EDIT>>>Don't answer my above question if you feel you are putting someone on the spot... |
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| Author: | JohnAbercrombie [ Fri Feb 23, 2007 4:30 am ] |
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Replace the headplate- that's my suggestion. Once somebody starts to look carefully- and the logo is a magnet for close inspection- they will notice even the best cover-up. It's a chunk of cash to by/make(?) a new headplate, but will probably be quicker than fiddling with micro touch-ups for hours. John |
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| Author: | peterm [ Fri Feb 23, 2007 4:30 am ] |
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Well, the reason there was the need to redo the original inlay is because the one I did was not up to my expectations so I had it redone. So the new font did not cover the old inlay totaly.... I can always remove the headplate and start over but OBVIOUSLY I am trying to avoid that... 
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| Author: | Dave Rector [ Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:03 am ] |
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Since it's still unfinished, why not rub a little shellac on it and see what it will look like. The shellac is easily removed and will let you know if it will look right under finish. |
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| Author: | tippie53 [ Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:52 am ] |
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I hate to say this but the pearl is very nice the actually inletting gaps are too heavy to hide well. They are many ways to inlet . I don't use dust as a fill as the dust tends to halo. I will color the glue as this seems to work better. I did a little seminar at Sylvan Wells shop a few weeks ago. I use a sharpie , some activator and superglue. This works very well for filling voids on inlay works. I do like the idea of seeing what it would look like under a finish first. It may not look as bad as the reflective qualities of the glue in the dust may be magnifying this john hall |
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| Author: | clavin [ Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:56 am ] |
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1) Rout out the glued area, AND the inlay in a pattern that can be variable but re-inlaid cleanly. 2) Make sure the grain and wood type is similar, and insert a new wood plug as if you were inlaying it clean. 4) Sand and level the plug. 5) Re-inlay a new inlay. Finish- and then go over the ebony with ebony dye like a fingerboard. It will even out any wood quality imperfections. If done properly it should be invisible. OR- just try dying the veneer as is first- it may darken out the headplate so that the new darker area isn't as noticeable. Good luck. Craig Lavin |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Fri Feb 23, 2007 4:49 pm ] |
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I certainly don't have the chops that our two inlay experts above have, but I have another suggestion. Why not glue down a piece of 0.020" black fiber over top of the face. You would have to re-do the binding, but you could easily re-route the inlay channel using the existing channel as a guide, use a small dia bit around the edges, than just drop the fiber down into the cavity to gain back your height. |
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