Hi John,
I use 3M painter's tape; a light grade, which I find does the job. I do pre-bend the bindings to the shape and use cauls at the waist as in this image.
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| Author: | John K [ Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:01 pm ] |
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I have been taping my binding down till the glue sets and have been feeling more and more dissatisfied with that approach. I have seen lots of "how-to" books advocate shock cord or cloth tape to hold the binding. I'll bet that Martin and Gibson, etc. etc. do not tape down the binding but they frequently use some form of plastic for that, so they may not be the best models to imulate. I am tired of the left over adhesive and the risk of pulling up a sliver of wood from the top when removing the tape. In the waist area I sometimes need a little more force than I can get with a single strand of tape, but I hate bunching it on bacause then its hard to see what is happening. On the other hand, the cummulative force exerted by a lot of rope wrapping around the box worries me. What do you guys do about this? John |
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| Author: | Aust Tonewoods [ Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:07 pm ] |
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Hi John, There are probably many ways to hold the binding. Pneumatic systems are probably one alternative but you need matching cauls to the side profile of your guitar. I will be visiting this issue in the next few weeks so I will let you now how I go. regards Tim Australian Tonewoods |
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| Author: | Martin Turner [ Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:29 pm ] |
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I go low tech...either dressmakers bias binding tape (1" wide stuff) or macrame rope. Have never had any problem with excessive pressure on the guitar body. |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:40 pm ] |
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HI John I know tape is what your trying to avoide, but I use a think 3m clear tape so I can see whats going on. I put it every inch or so, leaving a 1/4" open so I can wick in some CA. After it dries I remove the tape and wick the CA in all around. Works like a charm for me. I like it a whole lot better than doing it a few inches at a time with white glue. |
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| Author: | John K [ Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:43 pm ] |
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Ha, the down under guys. It must be getting up time where you are. Thanks for the comments. The dressmakers bias binding tape is sounding more and more attractive. It is certainly no more low tech than reinforced tape, but neither of us are up there with Tim's pneumatic approach. (I am wondering how in the world that would work) |
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| Author: | John K [ Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:46 pm ] |
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Lance, what is that 3m clear tape? Is it like a packaging tape? Do you have any problems with the CA running under the tape and gluing it to the top? Your method sounds good. Have you ever pulled any splinters up when removing the tape? |
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| Author: | Michael Lloyd [ Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:55 pm ] |
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Hi John, I use 3M painter's tape; a light grade, which I find does the job. I do pre-bend the bindings to the shape and use cauls at the waist as in this image.
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:55 pm ] |
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No, there is a kind of tape that the CA won't stick to. 3m High Tack. Here is the link to the correct product. https://www.hillas.com/Products/3M_Film_Tapes__Most_Popular/ 3M_622_1_2_X_60.asp This is good stuff... the only critisism is that it is not particularly strong. If you don't have a really good fit you can't force it in place with the tape. |
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| Author: | John K [ Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:06 pm ] |
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Thanks Brock for that address. I am going to have to get some of that tape if for no other reason than to see a substance that CA won't stick to. (other than teflon of course) I am guilty of needing a little extra force from time to time in the waist area, both in my guitars and my own waist area so I'm thinking what Michael is showing looks pretty good. Thanks guys |
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| Author: | Josh H [ Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:25 pm ] |
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I use the StewMac binding tape to hold things in place. I think the rope idea is cool, but I think I would have to see it demonstrated before I would give it a try. In regards to the tape pulling up wood slivers - Some time ago I started spraying the guitar body with a light coat of lac before I cut the binding channels. Since doing this I have never had a problem with the tape pulling up wood fibers. The light coat of lac gets entirely sanded off when the body gets its final sanding before finishing. |
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| Author: | Bruce Dickey [ Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:47 pm ] |
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The luthier hobbyiest on YouTube had a great idea, he used two 26 inch tire bicycle tubes, cut and split down the middle and then tied together lengthwise. I doubt Rubber would stick to anything much. Anyone remember the site for this guy, it was old school but innovative by our standards. Reuseable. |
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| Author: | Bruce Dickey [ Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:54 pm ] |
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It was Livingston Guitars and I'm wrong. That was gluing on the top and back to the rims. He used tape too. Strike one. 
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| Author: | GregG [ Tue Mar 06, 2007 12:33 am ] |
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This is how I do it...just old inner tubes cut into strips that are not too strong. I built a simple jig to wrap the bands around, I like this much better than tape....for me it works great. 
Greg |
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| Author: | martinedwards [ Tue Mar 06, 2007 1:05 am ] |
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Inner tubes eh? When I was visiting george Lowden a few months ago I sw his setup for gluong on tops & backs. a flat board with an innertube taped to it in a guitar shape. self leveling, equal force all round. very low tech and SO easy to set up. |
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| Author: | martinedwards [ Tue Mar 06, 2007 1:06 am ] |
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OH, I use inch masking tape from a DIY shop. |
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| Author: | Kevin Gallagher [ Tue Mar 06, 2007 1:55 am ] |
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I use 3M high tack tape and get the entire binding and purfling package in place arond the perimeter on the top r back and then wrap the guitar with a flat cotten cord that has nice elasticity to pull it all tight and allow it to sit for an hour beofe unwrapping and moving to the other side of the guitar. Check out Brock's link to the high tack tape above. It is aggressive and has great strength for pulling it tight without tearing. Regards, Kevin Gallagher/Omega Guitars |
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| Author: | Wayne Clark [ Tue Mar 06, 2007 2:27 am ] |
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I use the blue painters tape and binding tape. So far it's worked well for me. 
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| Author: | Rod True [ Tue Mar 06, 2007 2:34 am ] |
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I use regular old masking tape from the borg, some times in the waist I will use fiber tape, the clear stuff with thin fibers in it. I also coat the top with shellac before cutting the binding ledges and taping down the bindings. I'm surprised that some folks have to use clamps to get their bindings to seat tight, I would think that we would all bend them as close or nearly perfect to the body shape as possible. Don't you all bend the bindings in your binding jig if you have one? Also I tend to take the binding out of the jig just before I'm installing it, after I've cut the ledges. I haven't had to use that much force to get the bindings in there (knock on wood) and never hope I have to. Different strokes right. |
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| Author: | James Orr [ Tue Mar 06, 2007 3:01 am ] |
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Lance, when you take the tape off, do you go back to the unglued areas to wick in CA? I think I might try your method on my top binding. |
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| Author: | Wayne Clark [ Tue Mar 06, 2007 3:23 am ] |
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Rod - I bent the sides and bindings on a hot-pipe for #2. The bindings turned out close, but didn't match the sides exactly, so a few clamps were needed to make sure there would be no gaps. Bending on a pipe is definitely an art. I invested in some forms and a heating blanket, and built a bender last month. I have high hopes for guitar #3. |
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| Author: | LarryH [ Tue Mar 06, 2007 3:46 am ] |
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[QUOTE=LanceK] HI John I know tape is what your trying to avoide, but I use a think 3m clear tape so I can see whats going on. I put it every inch or so, leaving a 1/4" open so I can wick in some CA. After it dries I remove the tape and wick the CA in all around. Works like a charm for me. I like it a whole lot better than doing it a few inches at a time with white glue.[/QUOTE] I used this same method with simple packaging tape, the stuff with the fibers, and it worked amazingly well. (Read about it here) The best part is that you can position the binding in its exact location before gluing, check any bad areas and make changes. I also use accelerator on everything. I also use a clamp for the waist, but only because I can't bend my binding to fit that area exactly. |
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| Author: | Steve Saville [ Tue Mar 06, 2007 3:53 am ] |
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I use brown LMI tape and clamps as needed. I saw a picture of a fixture that is used at the Goodall factory and copied it. I use it for several guitars. It works well, but I like tape better. If you want this one, I'll send it to you if you pay for packing and shipping, probably about $25 -$30. 
I had to get creative on cutaways. 
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| Author: | LanceK [ Tue Mar 06, 2007 4:08 am ] |
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James, yes I go back and wick in some more just to be sure all areas are covered. One warning, if you cut all the way through to your linings, and you can see the kerfs, the ca can run (into) the inside of your guitar, messing it all up. SO when I know there is a risk of this, I will lay the guitar in a position that will -not- allow the ca to run inside. |
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| Author: | JohnAbercrombie [ Tue Mar 06, 2007 4:33 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Rod True] I'm surprised that some folks have to use clamps to get their bindings to seat tight, I would think that we would all bend them as close or nearly perfect to the body shape as possible. Don't you all bend the bindings in your binding jig if you have one? Also I tend to take the binding out of the jig just before I'm installing it, after I've cut the ledges. I haven't had to use that much force to get the bindings in there (knock on wood) and never hope I have to. Different strokes right.[/QUOTE] If you have a guitar shape with a 'tight' waist curve (ie parlour/O/OO?the opposite of a dread shape) then binding bent to the exact shape of the sides (in the bender) will not fit in the binding channel- it will require a tighter bend. A hand 'touchup' on a bending iron is one solution. Another is to make or improvise (by padding the waist of your outside mold) a jig to hold the binding in its tighter curve after it comes out of the bender. The thicker and stiffer the (wood) binding, the more this is a problem. It also makes it obvious why factories like to use nice floppy soft plastic binding. BTW, I used CA to bind a headstock recently (with ebony). When I dropped the raw neck, part of the binding just 'popped off'. I'm glad I use Titebond-type glue for body bindings. I also use fiber tape for body bindings. With a wash coat of shellac or lacquer, I haven't had tear-up problems yet. No doubt that's next! Cheers John |
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