Look HERE Jon, I just typed Bridge Pins in an archive search, you will find all kinds of stuff in the archives, a man could spend a good few years swimm'in round in there and come out a real guru on all things guitar I reckon.
Cheers
Kim
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| Author: | Jon L. Nixon [ Thu Mar 29, 2007 12:40 pm ] |
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Simply, what are the pros and cons of grooving the bridge pin versus slotting the pin hole and leaving the pin smooth? Any real difference between the various tapers that are available? Thanks in advance, Jon |
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| Author: | Kim [ Thu Mar 29, 2007 12:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Look HERE Jon, I just typed Bridge Pins in an archive search, you will find all kinds of stuff in the archives, a man could spend a good few years swimm'in round in there and come out a real guru on all things guitar I reckon.
Cheers Kim |
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| Author: | Arnt Rian [ Thu Mar 29, 2007 10:42 pm ] |
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I think it makes so much more sense to anchor the string ball under the bridge plate than at the edge of the pin hole. The string ball will chew up that edge sooner or later (sooner the softer the pin and plate material), and it can and will then wedge its way up along the pin shaft jamming everything shut. That makes it hard to remove the pins! I also like to think that firmly anchoring the balls under the bridge plate helps the transmission of vibrations from the string to the soundboard, even if I have no extensive test to show for it or know of other data to back that up; I know it can’t hurt! |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Fri Mar 30, 2007 12:55 am ] |
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i favour using the slot in the bridge, but realistically whether the pin is slotted or not is irrelevant. if you don't want to use the slot just rotate the pin so the slot faces away from the string. it's a no brainer. as far as the taper goes, it is somewhat different if you are installing replacement pins vs. building. if you are replacing, you are more than likely limited to using what has gone before, especially if the instrument has collectible value. it is sometimes feasible to convert a bridge reamed for 5* pins to 3* without enlarging the hole, but not vice versa. there are some who reckon that the steeper angle on the 5* pin is more likely to cause a split bridge if used by a ham handed oaf due to the greater wedging effect. if the pin hole is reamed correctly, etc., and common sense(what an oxymoron) is applied that risk is infinitesimal. however the 5* does leave slightly more wood at the bottom of the hole to support the ball. for this reason alone i prefer them. |
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| Author: | David Collins [ Fri Mar 30, 2007 4:19 am ] |
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Bridge pins were never meant to be slotted. They only turned that route in the 40's thanks to the conveniece of molded plastics. On the other hand, they sure provide a steady income in bridge plate work for us repair shops, so I guess it's not all that bad. 
I'll try to get some pics of my bridge plate repair display board (still a work in progress) and post them here, although it may not be this weekend. |
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