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Got my zoot today (pics).....*gulp*
http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=11684
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Author:  Chansen [ Mon Apr 16, 2007 3:42 pm ]
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I received my all my zoot today!!! Bob from RC Tonewoods has been very helpful so far. Thanks Bob! This is my first guitar, and as you can see from the pics I purchased both ebony and cocobolo fingerboard, bridge, headplate. I did this because I couldn't make up my mind of course. Plus I'll have a headstart on #2 in six or so months.
I really love the laminated neck, and the coco rosette blank has a lot of figure which is nice.

Well I am also posting this with my tail between my legs... I may have already made my first newbie mistake. I decided to lightly wet one side of the back for a picture... it started cupping in a matter of seconds. I immediately put it on some MDF with a weight on it. I used very little water and I don't think it is that bad. I did a little reading and it looks like I probably should "sticker" it. Or is there any other suggestions before I do this? I believe the back and sides are already sanded down to .085 if that helps. Thanks all!!











Author:  Shane Neifer [ Mon Apr 16, 2007 4:18 pm ]
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Craig,

Your back will probably be fine by morning, just leave it flat on your bench, wet side up. They are so thin that they dry quite fast and should return to normal soon. You will want to aclimate the woods to your shop envirnment for a week or two minimum anyway. The back is probably thicker than .085 otherwise you are going to have to be VERY careful about joining the plates together as you have almost no room to clean the centre seam up after gluing.

Good Luck!

Shane

Author:  Bobc [ Mon Apr 16, 2007 6:56 pm ]
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Christian like Shane stated above they should be fine. I believe the backs are around .120-.125 and sides are .085

Keep the backs sickered untill your ready to build.

Thanks again

Author:  Chansen [ Tue Apr 17, 2007 12:58 am ]
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Thanks guys! Like I said I did some quick research and realized it shouldn't be an issue.
Thanks for the pics and explanation Hesh! Stickering is like what I saw them do at the Jack Daniels distillery in good ol' Lynchburg.




Author:  Heath Blair [ Tue Apr 17, 2007 2:01 am ]
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ive seen commercially made "stickers" made of some sort of composite i think, but i was wondering what a good wood or other material would be to use for this purpose. so what do you guys use?

Author:  Bill Greene [ Tue Apr 17, 2007 2:48 am ]
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I use quarter inch strips ripped on the bandsaw from spruce shelving board - the boards are about 8 inches wide, and I buy it in 4' lengths. It's cheap, light, doesn't stain, reusable, etc.

I have a buddy who uses square dowel rod, but to me that looks a bit expensive.




Author:  crazymanmichael [ Tue Apr 17, 2007 5:06 am ]
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stickering is required when wood is drying, or if it is to be stored where it will be subjected to varying rh/temp levels. if your wood is dry, and stored in a climate controlled space, stickering is not strickly necessary, though it can be good insurance.

Author:  Shane Neifer [ Tue Apr 17, 2007 7:36 am ]
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I agree with Michael. Though it is not wrong to do it either way, once my wood is dry, and I have a fair bit , it just stacked in a neat pile. If it is dried properly and is structurally sound it will stay flat and be just fine. When you are ready to use it, pull your sets and glue them together a week or two before you are ready to start bracing. This lets the glue joint stabilize and at that point to can sticker the sets and let them do their thang!

Shane

Author:  CarltonM [ Tue Apr 17, 2007 12:53 pm ]
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Hesh, it's Melamine. I hadn't learned until recently that melamine is actually a glue, toxic of course, and it doesn't belong in dog food.

Author:  Chansen [ Tue Apr 17, 2007 2:53 pm ]
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Ok, everything is stickered now. And actually the piece wasn't cupped when I checked it this evening. I ripped some old particleboard shelving that I had used for a closet insert into 1x9s. It has a white laminate which as you guys were discussing is not a bad idea and won't stain. Thanks guys!!

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