Now I didn't go look at the other thread so maybe this has been discussed over there.
The one thing that many first timers don't realize is that you want the set of the neck (neck angle) to be based off the height of the bridge, not the angle at the body. This is were good design comes into play.
[quote=Dominic]So this idea was kind of like an epiphany to me (but maybe boring to the experts) but if you wanted to change your height at the bridge without getting fret board humps or dips for a particular design you would change the radius of your top. Is that how people here would address this?
Dom[/quote]
Yes, if the height of the bridge changes the angle at the body/neck junction needs to change. There are a couple of ways of doing this. One would be to change the dome/arc of the top. Another is to sand the upper bout above the soundhole to get the correct angle between the top and sides.
So as you have learned, the neck set is all based on the bridge height. One thing that I've heard quite a bit from the newbies (not that I'm not still a newbie, but I've read so much that I feel like a professional newbie
) is that they figure they would just sand down the bridge or put a shim under it to get the height right when it's in the body angle design that should be changed.
Laying out the design profile full size on paper or in a cad program can really help put the entire building process into perspective. Even better is a 3D model of it. Michael Payne has in the past posted some great renderings of guitar designs in 3D which have aided in his design process.
Enough rambling now.
This requires that I fret the FB after all construction is complete. If you fret prior to installing the neck you cant use this method.