As Hesh said, the braces themselves can be adjusted at this point if you feel it is too heavily braced as well as the top being too thick. As for top thickness, I would leave it as it is until the top is glued on*. It's just easier to sand that way, with the rim (sides) supporting the top. Then you can sand, either by hand (with a sanding block) or with an ROS (before you put the bindings on, so that you can see the thickness of the top from the edge). Many people, including myself, believe that it's a good idea to thin the top more around its periphery, leaving it thicker in the middle. Your top thickness in the middle may be just fine as it is, but you could thin it down around the outer couple of inches or so, just watching the edge thickness to make sure you don't go too far - down to about .100" around the periphery (or possibly even less) should be safe, but you can decide where to stop. Another thing I would do to make sure I'm not thinning it too much anywhere is put light pencil marks ("witness lines") all over the top before starting to sand. That way you can see how much material you're removing from where. You can add more witness lines as you go, if necessary.
*If it were me, I would definitely make or buy some thickness calipers to measure the thickness of the top in several places that you can't reach with standard calipers, before gluing the top on. I'd want to know how thick it is in various places near the middle before I start thinning it further.
As for flexing, I think it's very hard to tell anything from flexing the braced top that's not glued on yet. The flexibility is so highly variable depending on where you hold it. Once it's glued on, you can gauge deflection if you want by pushing down in a certain spot (say, where the bridge will go) and get a much better idea of how much flex you have in the top as a whole.
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Oh well, at least I'm learning a lot.
probably better than most.