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I'm working on a rather special guitar right now -- a 10-string classical with a raised fingerboard. I have just discovered that because of the additional fingerboard height, I cannot get my arm very far inside the guitar. I even had my daughter try (who has skinny arms and long fingers) and even she could not get her arm in, when she can usually reach in past her elbow.

So I'm faced with a problem that to me has only one solution, the way I see it: cut a door into the bottom of the guitar.

What I'd like to know is if anyone here has cut a door into the bottom of a guitar that is already complete for the most part? I've been giving this issue quite a bit of thought. So far, the best idea I've been able to come up with is to score the outline of the door with an X-acto knife and straight edge, then use a Dremel w/flexshaft extension and a cutoff wheel to make the initial cut(s), and follow up with a fine kerfed saw. It seems to me that a small hand saw with a curved blade would work well for this sort of application, but I've never seen anything like that before.

I hope to make the cuts as clean as possible, but if I have an oops, I can always install binding on the door's perimeter to cover it.

So. What would you do?

Best,

Michael

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Live to Play, Play to Live

Michael, first let me say it's good to see you again.
Maybe it's just me? But I seem to have been missing you lately, and was just wondering where you were....
Anyway, you've got the problem of an already-installed end block, don't you? And it's a normal size, isn't it? I.e., it won't support a large enough door--as is--to do you much good. You'd also have to do some after-market structural modification. Which can be done, of course.
You could come in via the back of the guitar, make the door out of the same material as the back, and secure it with little unobtrusive magnets. A la Fred Carlson. I'd vote for that, just for the cool factor. He further incorporates that into his overall design, but you would have to design something that will complement what's already there on your guitar.
I think I'd go about the cutting with a very fine saw, clean up the cut, and the outline the now smaller piece with a complimentary veneer or purfling. Again, like a Carlson. (Can you tell I've got his work in my mind's eye?)

Best of luck on this, and good to "see" you again.

Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

as to the cutting, i would probably make a template appropriately oversized so that i could use a template guide on a plunge router.

Well i missed you to Michael i would be tempted to snap a fine toothed sliting saw and mount it in a piece of wood much like a floorboard saw to start your cut anyway be sure to show us when your done

Mark   

Hey guys,

Thanks for the "welcome backs" -- been kinda busy with life and stuff, what can I say?

To address a few comments:

Steve, yes the tailblock is normal sized and yes, it would be too small for a door within its perimeter.

I'm hoping to retain the side pieces I remove and keep them for the door. If I can do this, I plan to cut through the tailblock, top and bottom, and retain the section of tailblock that will come out with the side pieces. Next, I plan to fabricate two narrower tailblocks, one for each side of the hole, that will overlap the hole somewhat. The door will rest against these. I like the magnet idea, but I'll probably end up using screws, countersunk so they fit flush. And then, just for some additional reinforcement at the very bottom, I plan to glue/dowel a couple of hardwood pieces to the top and bottom tailblock remnants (still glued down to the top and back) so the piece that was removed has something solid to rest against also.

Michael, what you propose would work, but I'm hoping to remove as little material as possible. I'll probably end up having to install binding/purfling on the door, though.

Mark, thanks for the heads-up on the slitting saw. I wasn't aware of these. There's a large jewelers supply not too far from where I live. Think I'll give them a call and see what they have in stock. Seems to me that using a saw like that would be a good way to get the cut started, and then I can follow up with a fine-toothed straight saw.

Best,

Michael

_________________
Live to Play, Play to Live

Sounds like a plan, Michael. Did you ever read the article that Chris Jenkins did for American Lutherie regarding trap doors? He builds an open rectangle for an end block, so that the trap door has support for every edge of the door. Of course, that's hindsight at this point, but your ideas certainly seem workable.

Get the finest saw you can find, test it in scrap, see how wide the kerf is, then draw it out on paper. I'd also draw the purfling around the door to see if you like the look. You might want to do something there with a bit of "flair"? A sketch or two will help solidify things for you.

How about some "before & after" shots?

Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

to cut it out i would use an inlay bit and template guide, they are only a 1/8". the sets are available from the woodwork houses and router bit dealers. i got my set from woodline for <$20.

Forgive the stupid question, but why do you need to get your arm inside of the guitar?

[QUOTE=rlabbe] Forgive the stupid question, but why do you need to get your arm inside of the guitar?[/QUOTE]
Tweaking the braces for sound. Necessary repairs. Installation of some types of amplification equipment. Also, if your arm can't get in there sometimes clamps of a needed length can't either.