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Goodman-Classical bridge tutorial
http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=11776
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Author:  Brad Goodman [ Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:49 pm ]
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Hi Guys and Gals.
Here is the way I make my classical bridges.

First I cut the blank to exact width and length and flatten or arch the bottom of the blank and draw two lines to delineate the edges of the tie block:






Then I cut at the lines to the depth of my wings (5/16") on the table saw:





Then I make multiple cuts at that depth to waste away the remaninder of the wood:




Then I use double stick tape to attach the blank to a board so I can keep my hannds clear of the router bit:



I am using my trusty pin router for the next operations,but a table mounted router would also work.

I set the pin router so the saddle slot is 3/16" from the front edge of the bridge-I am using a 3/32" end mill.

Here is a my pin router. It is a 70's vintage Delta with a pedal that raises and lowers the table.They discontinued this machine.I bought it for $400. You can also switch the motor to the bottom and us it as a router table.

Here I am routing the saddle slot:






Next I rout two 1/16" deep slots for the tie block inlay:







Next,I carve the ramp at the back of the saddle,carve the bridge wings and carve the end facets:









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Then I sand two pieces of ivory and glue them into their slots:









The last step is to drill the holes for the strings.
I use an adjustable vice on my drill press in order to get the correct angle:






Here is the finished bridge:



Author:  peterm [ Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:09 pm ]
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Great stuff!
Thanks for taking the time.

Author:  Michael McBroom [ Wed Apr 25, 2007 1:30 am ]
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Nice tutorial, Brad! I do essentially the same thing, cept I use a milling machine instead of a pin router. To "carve" the bridge wings and end facets I use a four-in-hand followed up with a detailing file, and then a fine-toothed flat file. 220-grit sandpaper wrapped around a small block of wood works well for final smoothing of the wings while still preserving the sharp curved edges of the end bevels.

Best,

Michael

Author:  D Stewart [ Wed Apr 25, 2007 1:52 am ]
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Very nice tutorial! Thanks for all the pics for all us visual learners.

Author:  CarltonM [ Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:28 am ]
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Thanks Brad! So, what is the "correct angle" of your string holes? 10deg. seems to be used a lot.

Author:  Brad Goodman [ Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:51 am ]
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Carlton,
I never measured the angle.
I start the holes 1/8" from the bottom of the bridge and eyeball the angle so the holes emerge at the bottom of the "ramp".

Author:  CarltonM [ Thu Apr 26, 2007 6:09 am ]
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Thanks Brad. Makes sense.

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