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Hi Guys and Gals.
Here is the way I make my classical bridges.

First I cut the blank to exact width and length and flatten or arch the bottom of the blank and draw two lines to delineate the edges of the tie block:






Then I cut at the lines to the depth of my wings (5/16") on the table saw:





Then I make multiple cuts at that depth to waste away the remaninder of the wood:




Then I use double stick tape to attach the blank to a board so I can keep my hannds clear of the router bit:



I am using my trusty pin router for the next operations,but a table mounted router would also work.

I set the pin router so the saddle slot is 3/16" from the front edge of the bridge-I am using a 3/32" end mill.

Here is a my pin router. It is a 70's vintage Delta with a pedal that raises and lowers the table.They discontinued this machine.I bought it for $400. You can also switch the motor to the bottom and us it as a router table.

Here I am routing the saddle slot:






Next I rout two 1/16" deep slots for the tie block inlay:







Next,I carve the ramp at the back of the saddle,carve the bridge wings and carve the end facets:









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Then I sand two pieces of ivory and glue them into their slots:









The last step is to drill the holes for the strings.
I use an adjustable vice on my drill press in order to get the correct angle:






Here is the finished bridge:

Great stuff!
Thanks for taking the time.

_________________
Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

Nice tutorial, Brad! I do essentially the same thing, cept I use a milling machine instead of a pin router. To "carve" the bridge wings and end facets I use a four-in-hand followed up with a detailing file, and then a fine-toothed flat file. 220-grit sandpaper wrapped around a small block of wood works well for final smoothing of the wings while still preserving the sharp curved edges of the end bevels.

Best,

Michael

_________________
Live to Play, Play to Live

Very nice tutorial! Thanks for all the pics for all us visual learners.

Thanks Brad! So, what is the "correct angle" of your string holes? 10deg. seems to be used a lot.

Carlton,
I never measured the angle.
I start the holes 1/8" from the bottom of the bridge and eyeball the angle so the holes emerge at the bottom of the "ramp".

Thanks Brad. Makes sense.