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Top or Back first?
http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=11810		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Mark Maquillan [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 4:44 am ]
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I am starting my third project. Both of the previous ones I  put the back on first. I want to check the top for tone before and after installation. Someone here suggested to put the top on first. The other thing is the top radius on this kit is flat. The bacing is flat no curve what so ever. Should the rim have a radius or should the braces impart the radius. I had many problems with the top on my second build which was the biggest learning opportunity(nothing like making big mistakes to smarten you up). Any help would be appreciated
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 5:07 am ]
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Who's kit is it? Most kit manufactures leave the top brace radius up to you. The braces will need to be radiused to what ever radius you want. Then the rim (ie the linings) will be sanded to that radius if you have a sanding dish. But even if the the rim and linings were sanded to a radius and the braces were left un-radiused the plate would assume a flat contour except right near the linings when glued on. So the answer to your question is that the braces must be radiused to impart a dome to the plate.
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 5:09 am ]
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[QUOTE=MichaelP] Who's kit is it? Most kit manufactures leave the top brace radius up to you. The braces will need to be radiused to what ever radius you want. Then the rim (ie the linings) will be sanded to that radius if you have a sanding dish. But even if the the rim and linings were sanded to a radius and the braces were left un-radiused the plate would assume a flat contour except right near the linings when glued on. So the answer to your question is that the braces must be radiused to impart a dome to the plate.[/QUOTE]

That said! You can build a fine guitar with a true flat top. The top will be just a bit weaker but not to a point of failure.
Author:  Mark Maquillan [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 5:17 am ]
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Its a Martin Kit from a luthier who comes up with some different kits. Lots of 12 fret ones. My first kit a deep OM was from him and I am pleased with the outcome. This is a Dred mahogany kit from parts used for the Authentic line that Martin is doing, Adirondack top.
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 5:22 am ]
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John How? That is just a guess if so Great kits.
Author:  LanceK [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 5:55 am ]
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Michael, I think you mean Hall, John Hall.
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 6:14 am ]
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[QUOTE=LanceK] Michael, I think you mean Hall, John Hall.[/QUOTE]

eeeeeep
Author:  WaddyThomson [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 6:18 am ]
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Here Michael, you can borrow my edit button.
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 6:23 am ]
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[QUOTE=WaddyT]


Here Michael, you can borrow my edit button.

[/QUOTE]

I refuse to coment on the ground is might incrimenate Lance    Just kidding Lance
Author:  Bruce Dickey [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 6:25 am ]
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I like old John Hall, doesn't everyone?
Author:  Bruce Dickey [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 6:27 am ]
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Oh, sorry, I do my backs first, primarily for one reason. I like to clean the innards of glue and make it look pretty.

If you glue the back on last, you have less chance to do that.

However about your third guitar, you'll know just exactly how much glue to put on that sucker anyway and won't have much to clean up.
Author:  MSpencer [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 12:46 pm ]
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Backs first for me, same reason as Bruce above. If you are building a dred with a flat top then you would have a matching radius of "flat" on the rims. The rims are radiused to match the fit of the top or back so that you have a good fit.

Mike
White Oak, Texas
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