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| Glue line question http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=11833 |
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| Author: | Chansen [ Sat Apr 28, 2007 6:50 pm ] |
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Hi all! I just joined my top and back plates on friday and I have since scraped them down a bit to get the excess glue off. Well the rough portion of the glue obviously came right off but it is still very visible where the glue dried even though it feels smooth. Do the plates have to be sanded to the point this is completely gone? How deep does glue usually saturate wood? I believe the back was at about .120 when I joined the plates but I haven't checked it again. Thanks, Christian |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Sun Apr 29, 2007 1:31 am ] |
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Hesh .. are you candling after gluing, looking at the joint ??? The best time to do this, and I do it with all tops and backs is after the joint line has been on the shooting board - check it before you glue, and if its not right, back to the shooting board. Then when you glue it up in your jig it will be fine. |
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| Author: | Chansen [ Sun Apr 29, 2007 2:59 am ] |
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I got a pretty successful joint on both the sitka top and the eucalyptus back. I used the the candlelight method as Cumpiano's book and everyone here suggested. I think Todd answered the bulk of my question. I don't even have a caliper yet so I need to go pick one up to check the thickness before sanding down any further. I think I'm going to continue using my scraper to get the glue line completely gone and get it down to thickness. Thanks guys  Christian |
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| Author: | Chansen [ Sun Apr 29, 2007 5:01 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Hesh1956]and I am not speaking of an old 60's practice - fondly... 
[/QUOTE] |
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| Author: | Doug O [ Sun Apr 29, 2007 6:10 am ] |
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I used to put a tin chicken pot pie pan around my candle so the wind wouldn't blow it out. |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Sun Apr 29, 2007 11:34 pm ] |
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I use rope and wedges on a shop made rail board - if the joint candles tight dry, there is no way it wont be tight once glued up |
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