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| Notching Kerfing (Pics) http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=11903 |
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| Author: | Bill Greene [ Sat May 05, 2007 5:18 am ] |
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Hesh: If you don't mind me asking, how do you get your brace ends set to the exact same height everytime? I've seen folks use a sander (think Luthier's Friend sanding station), and others who say they just chisel carve it that way. On my recent build, I attempted to taper my brace ends down to .100 but they all ended up being a little off here and there. Just curious about your method, as your tutorials always seem to be so illuminating. Bill |
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| Author: | WaddyThomson [ Sat May 05, 2007 6:20 am ] |
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Very neat, Hesh, but I wouldn't expect less from you. Thanks for the "Tips from the Tootman"! |
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| Author: | charliewood [ Sat May 05, 2007 6:24 am ] |
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Hesh, thanks alot for the tutorial!! I love these things, and I could look at different ppl's tutorials outlining the same process over and over - These threads offer real sweet guidance for newbs like me! Keep up the good work Hesh and everyone else here who furthers the developement of us starting luthiers out there. Cheers charliewood |
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| Author: | charliewood [ Sat May 05, 2007 6:25 am ] |
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PS love that guitar-porn too, dopnt stop posting progress and finshed axe pics |
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| Author: | JohnAbercrombie [ Sat May 05, 2007 6:41 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Bill Greene] If you don't mind me asking, how do you get your brace ends set to the exact same height everytime? [/QUOTE] Another strategy is to use a 'standard thickness' gauge of some sort, and shave your brace ends down to the gauge. A thin piece of hardwood (bridge plate scrap?) held next to the brace will work. A slicker approach is to use a scrap of 1/8" or less plexiglas and saw it into a 'U' shape, so the gauge can straddle the end of the brace. Chisel down until the chisel rides on the plexi gauge. Then set your router/Dremel to the same depth, using the gauge. Thanks to Jeremy, apprentice at Sergei deJonge's shop, for this hint! BTW, if you are letting your braces through the sides (and why wouldn't you, since the binding cut will take care of them??), a razor saw cut at the edges will make the routing neater and a lot faster as well. Cheers John |
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| Author: | matt jacobs [ Sat May 05, 2007 8:24 am ] |
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I'm with John here, I just route through the sides, in most cases the binding will cover it up. |
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| Author: | Ricardo [ Sat May 05, 2007 8:34 am ] |
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A related question: should the kerfing be installed kerfed side out or in as in the first photo in this thread? I've seen it both ways. |
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| Author: | Anthony Z [ Sat May 05, 2007 9:45 am ] |
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Hesh, thanks for another great tutorial! Nice clean work by the way! |
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| Author: | James Orr [ Sat May 05, 2007 10:41 am ] |
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Ah! I wish I would've thought of this when I was notching mine! Great tutorial. |
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| Author: | WaddyThomson [ Sat May 05, 2007 11:01 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Ricardo]A related question: should the kerfing be installed kerfed side out or in as in the first photo in this thread? I've seen it both ways. [/QUOTE] You can buy it both ways, but it is cut the opposite way, keeping the flat unkerfed portion to the side, and the angled kerfed side to the inside of the guitar. The reversed kerfing is a little neater looking, but I have seen a lot of classical tops put on with the kerfing toward the inside of the guitar. |
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| Author: | CarltonM [ Sun May 06, 2007 7:00 am ] |
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Thanks for the information Hesh. The great thing about starting one of these tutorial threads is that they frequently prompt additional tips from others, as it did here. Thanks to all! |
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