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Have any of you, when faced with tight bends ie cutaway, Mando, ever cut the binding like kerfing except each cut should be left short of the edge of binding that will show. How did it work out? Any woods better than others?
Thanks,

I think the problem with that method could be sanding through the binding to the kerf in some spots. I haven't been able to make my bindings totally uniform in thickness on any of my guitars yet, and I know that I would sand through to reveal the kerf somewhere along the way.

Cool idea though. You could even cut the kerf all the way and fill the void with contrasting wood dust and CA for a different look to your bindings. Kind of a built in purfling of sorts.

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I have a Preac saw, used for scale wood ship bldg. -a table saw of sorts- blades 3" dia. diff thickness, but some thinner than fret saw and I can control depth of cut in very small increments. I thought if slot was thin and the depth of cut was 1/2(?) thickness of binding, the wood would bend much easier for tight bends and then you could use thicker bindings and bend tight curves. Make sense to anyone else?

Why Hesh, you are multi-talented!  What is the boat, and when are you going to step the masts?

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Waddy

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Man - 0 - Man !!

I'm amazed Hesh!  Nice boat !!!!

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Ken H

Heh, No fair! No wonder my woodworking skills are so far behind!   

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

[QUOTE=Hesh1956]Hi Bob and your idea makes sense to me since I build wooden ship models too. That is one of the ways that you can get planks to conform to the hull curves.



But I think that Rod is right that the risk of sanding through to a kerf is to great. And the kerfs from the side view would show probably too.



Here is a shot of one of my boats: 
[/QUOTE]

I still want to know about the boat model.  Is it a Lake Schooner of some type?

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Waddy

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