I dunno if Ive posted any pics of it - this ones a month+ old during the truing up process - but anyhoo its a pic - Ill have to shoot some more once its painted and finished.
Cheers
Charliewood
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| Author: | charliewood [ Mon May 14, 2007 6:35 am ] |
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I had a couple questions .. I made my own thickness sander and through the true-ing up process of the mdf {and bb ended} drum there were some minor inconsistancies... which led me to a diagnose a couple component problems in the machine that Im reworking now.. I was orginally going to leave the drum bare wood - but Ive since decided to finish it as per the directions of the ShopNotes article seeing as I bought some polyurethane wood finish. I looked through the multitude of finishes at the hardware store and settled on polyurethane because it said on the label "bowling alley tough" & "for gymmnasium floors" etc things like that - you know > strong like bull. The directions in the SN article just said put a couple coats of finish on it, without being too specific... Ive never used polyurethane lacquer for anything other than sealing the ends and open faces of wood I was curing - can anyone see any problems using it for this drum application...???? It seemed proper for the application because of its stated "toughness" now I always go by the maxim "its not what you dont know, that fouls you up - its what you dont know you dont know" so Id thought I would ask, having very little experience finishing things... I forget what my second question was - Il tack it on once I remember.. Cheers Charliewood |
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| Author: | charliewood [ Mon May 14, 2007 6:49 am ] |
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I dunno if Ive posted any pics of it - this ones a month+ old during the truing up process - but anyhoo its a pic - Ill have to shoot some more once its painted and finished.
Cheers Charliewood |
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| Author: | WaddyThomson [ Mon May 14, 2007 7:01 am ] |
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I don't know much, but I know that on gym floors and bowling alleys it is usually applied with a lambswool mop instead of a brush. I don't know how that would translate to a drum, maybe something like a small lambswool polishing mitt or pad. Seems to me it should do pretty well. My question would be whether it'll handle the heat produced by a top drum thickness sander. |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Mon May 14, 2007 7:23 am ] |
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If I were you I would ditch the finish idea, and wrap the drum is a hard rubber of some sort - I used auto gasket material from princess auto here in Canada, and contact cemented it to the drum - it helps cushion the paper just enough to help prolong the paper's life. My .02$ |
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| Author: | charliewood [ Mon May 14, 2007 8:22 am ] |
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Waddy - Thats exactly what I was worried about, although the SN article just slapped about the idea of applying finish pretty loosely... so perhaps its not too terribly much of a concern,??!!?? I dunno mabye someone who defiitely does will chime in Tony - great idea!!! Unfortunately.... I live in a place where sourcing things like that is a bit complicated sometimes,{too say the least} but I will definitely consider what you say... its definitely less complicated a method than applying finish and truing the drum again... Cheers for the input guys.... anyone else? Charliewood |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Mon May 14, 2007 8:30 am ] |
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try them on the web .. www.princessauto.com, or maybe a local auto supply .. at princess, it was like 12 bucks for a piece 2x3 ft. |
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| Author: | charliewood [ Mon May 14, 2007 9:01 am ] |
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Do you have a photo of your finished drum Tony? Cheers Charliewood |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Mon May 14, 2007 10:43 pm ] |
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one aspect of any finish you apply that you need to consider is its behavior when it gets hot. the drum will generate a bit of heat, more or less depending upon how hard you push it. if the finish were to soften and slip around it might cause problems. |
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| Author: | WaddyThomson [ Tue May 15, 2007 1:59 am ] |
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That's something to consider if you use contact cement and cover with other material as well. I have seen contact cement fail just sitting in the sun for a short time. I suppose it depends on the cement you use too. Why don't you use z-poxy? It should be pretty hard, and be easy to level out. |
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| Author: | charliewood [ Tue May 15, 2007 4:24 am ] |
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Im still in the consideration stage definitely Waddy, so anything is a possibility at this point... Cheers for the info/tips Charliewood |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Tue May 15, 2007 4:36 am ] |
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Charlie, I'd either just leave it once trued up or just a thin coat or two of shellac to seal it. Looks like the drum is birch plywood eh? all those pieces glued together should be pretty stable I think and if it's in your shop (don't know if the shop will be humidity controlled) than it should be fine. |
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| Author: | charliewood [ Tue May 15, 2007 5:50 am ] |
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Actually Rod the ends are 3/4" bb but the 18 or so disks in between them are 3/4"mdf - but all the same I dont think there will be stability issues, as I have heard from others who say thier mdf drums have held up for years.. Heck I dont even mind if I have to re-true them up slightly once a year or so. Thanks for the input Rod Cheers Charliewood |
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| Author: | WaddyThomson [ Tue May 15, 2007 6:08 am ] |
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Charlie, are you gonna use hook & loop paper or stick-on paper? That could make a difference. If you use stick-on, sealing would be a good idea. I think it would make the paper stick better. That MDF edge is pretty porous, and cleaning glue off could be a mess. I think, I would seal it no matter what. You will get stuff to stick to it better, IMO. |
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| Author: | Lillian F-W [ Tue May 15, 2007 12:00 pm ] |
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What about a coating of JB Weld? You can sand it smooth afterwards. It might take a bit, but I'm sure you can get there. The above suggestion is offered on 6 hrs or sleep over two days. Use at your own risk. |
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| Author: | old man [ Tue May 15, 2007 2:12 pm ] |
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I have a 4" white pine drum on mine and I didn't put any finish on it. I did cover it with a velcro material, though, so I use velcro backed paper. In use for two years and no problems at all. Ron |
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| Author: | Daniel M [ Tue May 15, 2007 3:24 pm ] |
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I use water based Varathane floor finish on all my jigs & it seems to work great... No problem with it softening up with a little heat on the sanding drum. |
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| Author: | charliewood [ Wed May 16, 2007 4:11 am ] |
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The hard bb disks on the ends of the drum {although not yet completed in the picture shown} have locking wedges in them - the ends of the sandpaper are inserted into these wedge cavities, then the wedge is inserted and tightened down {theres a threaded insert in the bottom of the wedge cavity} this locks the sandpaper in place without adhesives of any type. So for this matter... the drum could probably left bare? Mabye someone can comment having the extra info I should have stated this earlier.. Cheers Charliewood |
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| Author: | WaddyThomson [ Wed May 16, 2007 6:42 am ] |
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I think, under those circumstances, it would be fine as long as it doesn't get wet or live in a very damp or dry environment. |
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| Author: | Dave Rector [ Wed May 16, 2007 11:53 pm ] |
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Charlie, I would think the idea of applying finish to the drum is to seal it and help prevent it changing shape from humidity changes. I think I would just use some 2lb cut shellac and let is soak in a little, maybe just rag it on for a nice thin coat. That should be enough to give it a seal and then the paper being wrapped around it would help even further. Or, you could just skip that step and only do it if it does become a problem later. |
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| Author: | charliewood [ Thu May 17, 2007 4:16 am ] |
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Thanks for all the advice guys - I think I will do what you say Dave - its just easy and I really have alot of extra projects on the go now, that could use the attention I would end up giving to this sander.. Cheers Charliewood |
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