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| Bandsaw Blades Help Please http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=12022 |
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| Author: | psl53 [ Mon May 14, 2007 10:41 am ] |
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Hesh, I have read good reviews on the timber wolf. Going from 6 TPI to 4 TPI shouldn't be that much of a change. The 1/4" thick part is more important you should be able to make curve cuts, which I sense is what you're looking to do. You will get a little rougher cut with the 4 Teeth Per Inch blade. Hope this Helps Peter |
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| Author: | James Ringelspaugh [ Mon May 14, 2007 12:29 pm ] |
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I think a good general rule of thumb is to have no fewer than 3 teeth in the work, and no more than a dozen or so. 6-9 teeth is what I try for. So if you're generally cutting 1/2" to 1.5" pieces with an average of 1", you'll want a 6-9 TPI blade. I have found that the blades you can buy at Home Depot type stores are pretty much worthless... you'll do much better with a Timber Wolf or comparable blade. For resawing I like the 'Wood Slicer' blade; I forget who makes that one. |
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| Author: | gozierdt [ Mon May 14, 2007 12:32 pm ] |
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I'd recommend something with more teeth/inch for the uses you mentioned. I believe you should have at least one, preferably 2 or 3 teeth in the stock at one time. The 3 and 4 tooth/inch blades work well for resawing thicker stock, because the gullets are larger, and don't fill with sawdust as quickly when cutting through a thick billet. That said, I occasionally cut 1/8" or so stock with a 3 TPI blade. It works if you don't push it too fast, and as Peter said, it will cut rougher. |
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| Author: | KenH [ Mon May 14, 2007 1:10 pm ] |
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Hesh, I just bought that exact same blade for my Jet bandsaw this past weekend. It saws like a champ. Here is the thing about saw blades: The less number of teeth, the better they are for re-sawing lumber. Since I do a lot of resawing with mine, this is what I chose. You could also look at the hook angle and the gullet size. but basically the 3 to 4 TPI are for re-sawing. I have Carter guides on my saw and one of the rear bearings came loose and the 2 side bearings took all of the set out of my blade... something to watch for if you have Carter guides... By the way, I own a protable sawmill and I use timberwolf blades on that. I like them. |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Mon May 14, 2007 1:40 pm ] |
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the generally accepted guidelines for wood working blades si 3-4 teeth in the work at any time. so thin stock needs more teeth, thick stock fewer. different materials require have different guidelines. this can vary for green stock, etc. the uses you mention suggest the possibility of needing two blades. brace stock is usually sold in 1.5"-2" thicknesses. brace stock slices = 1/4" or so. cutting out tops and backs from the square, 1/8" or so. the blade you show would perhaps serve to rip slices of brace stock, but may be a bit rough for the ripping of brace blanks or cutting out tops or backs, but still better than a 4 tpi. |
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