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Tale of the Sticker..........
http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=12040
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Author:  redennis3 [ Tue May 15, 2007 2:06 am ]
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What kind of sticky paper do you use that will stick to wood to go inside on the back of the guitar, you know, your label.


                                        Red


Author:  WaddyThomson [ Tue May 15, 2007 2:10 am ]
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Good question Red.  I've been wondering the same thing.  Not that I'm close to that step at all.  Maybe the 3M spray cement.  Or how about Fish Glue?

Author:  Brad Goodman [ Tue May 15, 2007 2:49 am ]
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I use fish glue.

Author:  Bill Bergman [ Tue May 15, 2007 4:07 am ]
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For posterity, be sure that the labels are on high rag content or other paper that will not rot. Cheap recycled paper such as is often used in the home printer, office, or instant print shops will crumble after several years. Even good print shops use cheap paper unless you specify otherwise. I recall an article that authentic Torres labels still look relatiely fresh, while forged ones crumble due to the modern cheaper papers.

Author:  Hank Mauel [ Tue May 15, 2007 4:12 am ]
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I print my labels out from the pc, then use 3M "stickum". It comes on a roll, about 2.5 inches wide. You peel the first side off, attach it to your label (or whatever) then peel off the second covering to expose the adhesive and press in place.
If need be, it comes off the instrument fairly easily and can be completely cleaned off with some naphtha.

Author:  WaddyThomson [ Tue May 15, 2007 6:25 am ]
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Dang, Red!  I'm new at this and I was right, TWICE.  How can that be?  The high quality paper thing makes sense if you are building for posterity.

Author:  Mike Collins [ Tue May 15, 2007 7:13 am ]
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I use a special paper from a local office supply .
It looks like the paper used in money or special douments.
SORRY I do not have the box to give the correct name.

Use the pickguard glue sheets from Stew-mac !!

No wrinkles and can be cut to any shape or size.
Mike

Author:  WaddyThomson [ Tue May 15, 2007 7:34 am ]
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That would be consistent with what Bill said.  Money is very high rag content paper, and, as you know, tough as nails.

Author:  JJ Donohue [ Tue May 15, 2007 7:55 am ]
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What Hesh et al said about the paper grade. I also use archival ink...my labels are hand written.

In addition, I use diluted HHG and cover both sides of the paper. Presumably the covering of HHG will prevent further oxidation of the paper and ink.

Author:  WaddyThomson [ Tue May 15, 2007 8:07 am ]
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Hesh:

What kind of printer do you use? Or is this refill ink?


Author:  Shawn [ Tue May 15, 2007 5:28 pm ]
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Any paper that is acid-free will last longer and almost always has a higher percent of linen or rag content. If you search for achival supplies there are a number of places online that have good prices and quite alot of information.

Author:  Bill Bergman [ Tue May 15, 2007 11:37 pm ]
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PC printer inks are highly variable. Some (or all) of the ink jets are water soluble. A drip from a humidifier in the guitar can ruin the lable. I think that lazer printers are not soluble. I also think that xerox, including color, is not soluble. You could print up a sheet of labels on your computer and then take it to the Fedex Kinkos to copy on the color xerox for fifty cents. Use your own high rag content paper.

Author:  WaddyThomson [ Wed May 16, 2007 1:21 am ]
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The inkjet ink is not waterproof, or even water friendly, but it can be sealed with any sort of fixative.  I was printing CD's on an Epson, and found that if I sprayed them with fixative, the would not smear, even when soaked.  I used a matte finish Krylon Fixative.  I would assume that the combination of HHG and Shelac would accomplish the same thing.  You would have to  be careful not to smear the ink when applying HHG.

Author:  Ric Hollander [ Wed May 16, 2007 1:49 am ]
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I used "Fine Parchment Inkjet Paper" from Southworth (got it at Staples). After the ink dried I sprayed the label on both sides with Krylon Workable Fixative (2 coats). This seals the pores and adds an almost invisible protective coating on the label. I next cut it to size and then sprayed 3M Super 77 Multipurpose Spray Adhesive on the back side of the paper. If you don't apply the fixative the adhesive will saturate through and make it semi-transparent (ugly!). It worked perfectly and stuck firmly around the center back seam.

You can find Krylon Workable Fixative at any arts supply store including Michaels, A.C. Moore, etc.

Here's how it came out.



Author:  Bill Bergman [ Wed May 16, 2007 1:50 am ]
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There are a group of beetles called Dermestids that are also nick named Museum Beetles. The larvae and beetles eat dead animal material of all kinds. They will decimate preserved specimens, especially insect collections. They are also used in the museum preparation room to remove tissue from skeletons to make perfect skeletons for dsiplay. I expect that they will eat paper with hide glue, but they cannot get between the wood surfaces to eat the glue line. They are everywhere.

Author:  JJ Donohue [ Wed May 16, 2007 2:05 am ]
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Good point Hesh...the shellac coating makes sense unless it is infested with shellac-eating bugs as well!

We might have to lace our materials with DDT

In reality, all of the dead organic materials used in a guitar will be consumed by one bug or another. I've been successful so far in keeping my guitars away from termites. If I can only keep them away from excess moisture and heat I just may be able to avoid the HHG-eating bugs as well.

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