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| stewmac waterbase pore filler? http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=12105 |
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| Author: | jerr6 [ Fri May 18, 2007 1:52 pm ] |
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ive been experimenting with this stuff on some scrap. the directions leave me a little confused but after searching around here i think i have it figured out. 1st apply and wait couple minutes. 2nd wipe off excess let dry overnight24hrs 3rd sand . my question is do i sand it smooth or all the way back down to bare wood. i plan on using their aerosol sanding sealer followed by the aerosol satin finish. thanks for your help |
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| Author: | John How [ Fri May 18, 2007 2:04 pm ] |
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Hey Jerr I just tried this stuff for the first time but here is what I did and it seems to be working. The reason I wanted totry this is that part of my finishing process is staing the wood for an aged look, so I need to fill before staining and it needs to be water based because the stain I use is water based and compatable. After smooth sanding apply the filler with a brush. Let it stand for about 5 minutes (if yougo much more than that it'll start to congeal) and then scrap off everything you can. The trick is getting the time right because you want it to stay in the pores abd the longer you leave it on the better it stays in the pores. It really does sand well though when dry so it's no big deal if you leave too much on. It dries much faster than epoxy too, about 2 to 3 hours till you can sand it. Sand it back to bare wood trying not to remove much wood or you'll have to refill. Two applications should be enough to start finishing. With this stuff I can fill the guitar and then do my staining and off to finish spraying. |
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| Author: | davidmor [ Fri May 18, 2007 2:33 pm ] |
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I do it just like John said with the only exception being that I can't let it sit for 5 minutes. If I let it sit more than about 2-3 minutes, it gets too hard to scrape off. It really drys very fast so do small sections at a time. If you get too much on at one time, you will be doing a lot more sanding! I usually go about 1/4 of a back at a time and 1/2 a side at a time. Typically I do one application, let it sit overnight, sand and repeat. I have sanded in a couple of hours though with no ill effects. I can usually get a complete fill in 2 applications. |
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| Author: | jerr6 [ Sat May 19, 2007 1:03 am ] |
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thanks guys. another question if my guitar is spruce top and mahagony b&s should i mask off the bindings or is it ok to get it on them. the binding is white plastic. when you sand back down to bare wood do you just use 320 grit paper or start with 120 and work up to 320? |
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| Author: | davidmor [ Sat May 19, 2007 1:51 am ] |
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With the clear stuff I don't bother masking off binding. It sands off nicely. By the time I am pore filling, the body has already been sanded to 320 grit so I stay with 320 and then go to 400 before finishing. If you are using colored filler (yuck, I used it once and never again!) I would mask the binding off, as well as anything else you don't want stained. |
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| Author: | John How [ Sat May 19, 2007 2:09 am ] |
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[QUOTE=jerr6] thanks guys. another question if my guitar is spruce top and mahagony b&s should i mask off the bindings or is it ok to get it on them. the binding is white plastic. when you sand back down to bare wood do you just use 320 grit paper or start with 120 and work up to 320?[/QUOTE] Jerr, I use it mostly with my mahogany guitars and I use the medium brown and definately mask the plastic bindings. It'll sand off but why put yourself thru that if you don't have to. It's much easier to mask. |
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