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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 2:24 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 4:09 pm
Posts: 27
Location: United Kingdom
Just thought you would like to see my binding jig. The only things I bought in were the draw slides, a heavy duty television swivel and I also purchased the guitar cradle brackets from StewMac, saves some work making these. I used other materials I already had such as acrylic sheet and offcuts of 18mm birch ply. I did`nt work from plans, everything was governed by the height of the brackets and the maximum guitar side width I might need of 5". I`ve used extra long material for the parallelagram so I can rout jazz guitar binding ledges without jacking anything up. It`s a lot of jig just to rout a small rebate, now I`ve got to find somewhere to store it.

Do any of you who use this jig follow the StewMac suggestion of routing a chop or climb cut in the areas that can chip out before routing in the normal direction all around the instrument ?







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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 7:13 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 2:21 am
Posts: 2924
Location: Changes when ever I move..Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
[QUOTE=ToddStock]I also tape a vertically oriented piece of spruce stock to the tail area as a stop when I'm doing a mitered side purfling. Not that I've ever made that mistake...more than a couple times.[/QUOTE]



Good idea Todd

Cheers

Kim


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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 7:18 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 2:21 am
Posts: 2924
Location: Changes when ever I move..Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Oh, and nice look'in jig there Bob

Cheers

Kim


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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 11:51 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sun Jan 02, 2005 1:38 pm
Posts: 1105
Location: Amherst, NH USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Yes, do the climb cuts.

May I suggest a small modification to your jig. Make the from piece of plywood a couple of cm longer and lower the router relative to the parallelagram. When the jig is extended over the top of an arch top guitar to cut the channel on the other side, there is a good chance that the router base and the side plates will hit the high parts of the top of the guitar.

I had this problem on my jig and has to reduce the size of my router base. The guide ring on the bottom of the router base wasn't tall enough to keep the rest of the jig from hitting the guitar. But, if I made the ring taller there wasn't enough of the bit shaft in the collet.


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 12:32 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 6:16 am
Posts: 2244
Location: United States
First name: michael
Last Name: mcclain
City: pendleton
State: sc
Zip/Postal Code: 29670
Status: Professional
i have seen a number of posts on various fora wherein it is claimed that the climb cuts are unnecssary.

regardless, experience has taught me that when chipout is likely or possible to occur, it will. so i do the climb cuts.

to me it seems ironic the whilst they are called climb cuts, if one envisions the guitar sitting on its sides, all the climb cuts go downhill.


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 8:28 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 6:25 pm
Posts: 2749
Location: Netherlands
Nice!

Quick question: how long are the drawer slides you used? I have a half-built ribekke-style jig I'm thinking of taking apart and recycling to make one of these...


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2007 1:52 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 4:09 pm
Posts: 27
Location: United Kingdom
Mike
If I run into that problem I`ll just turn up another deeper nylon shoe on my wood lathe. The shoe on there now is secured with four self tapping screws which I ground down shorter after cutting the threads. The StewMac binding cutter has a good long shaft on it as well.
Mattia
My drawer slides are 21" long closed. Nice heavy duty pair with plenty of ball races and not a hint of play.



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