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Beginner Inlay Questions
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Author:  JasonAnthony [ Wed Jun 06, 2007 3:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hi guys, newbee Jason. I was wandering about routing bases for inlay
work. I read Larry robinsons book. he used a dremel with a plexy glass
base so that he could see his work. Stew-mac offers the prcision base.
what are your opinions on both. What mini router do you suggest and
what burs are you all using. If you guys have any tips,facts, knowledge to
impart in the area of inlay....It would be greatly appreciated. I have about
2oz of abalone all different sizes how do I do one logo on random cut
sizes
Author:  SniderMike [ Wed Jun 06, 2007 3:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hey Jason. I like the Stewmac base quite a bit, although I know there are
some that don't. I also like the downcut spiral bits that stewmac carries.
I usually use the 1/8" to hog out as much as I can, then I use the 1/16"
and 1/32" ones for the details. I have an older Dremel that I use cranked
up to "10".

I like Larry's book. That is how I first learned. Then I just practiced a lot
and figured out what works and doesn't work for me.    
Author:  Marc Lupien [ Wed Jun 06, 2007 3:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hey Jason.  Beginning inlay here too!!!  During the ASIA symposium, Dave Nichols gave a basic pearl cutting course.  It was very interesting...  I would have taken a 2 day course!  Dave Nichols told me that he was giving one week courses at is NY shop.  I am very tempted!  He also sells an air tool to cut the channel for the pearl.  I have not yet tried mine since I am setting a new shop home to do inlays.
Author:  Cecil [ Wed Jun 06, 2007 10:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
Welcome to the OLF Jason.

Check out John Hall's setup at Blues Creek Guitars. The link is at the top of the page with the sponsors. It does a great job.

Cecil
Author:  crazymanmichael [ Wed Jun 06, 2007 10:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
whilst a dremel has been the standard tool for the task for decades, most still use it, and it does a fairly good job within its limits, it is not the best tool for the job any more.

that being said, the best dremel base out there now is the bishop cochran base available from allied. it is expensive, but most things that have a "best" tag on them are. when my very old dremel died ten years ago and i had to get another i also opted to get the cochran base. i think that there is simply no other dremel base that compares to it. it is also available to suit a foredom hand piece. both the sm base and the base sold by lmi are very serviceable though. the only problem is that dremels just aren't as good as they once were.

i have heard very good reports about the proxxon dremel type tool and its proprietary base as well.

the high speed pneumatic mini die grinders do an excellent job, but of course do require a compressed air source at your bench. The grinders themselves are available fairly inexpensively and it is an easy task to make a base, or as mentioned above you can buy them ready made from john hall at blues creek, one of our sponsors, or from david nichols.

as to your question about the logo, without seeing your artwork it is very difficult to advise. but if you search the archive for posts by craig lavin or paul boudreau(sponsor), our resident inlay wizards, you will see some amazing work.

Author:  RCoates [ Thu Jun 07, 2007 12:53 am ]
Post subject: 
I use the plexi-glas base from LMI (I think). I don't do much inlay (I did one guitar) but it I do use it for rosette channels and sound holes. It works ok but the base cracked the first day when I over tightened a lockdown screw. The up/down motion also seems to be a bit sticky. If I were to do it again, I'd try something else.

I also use the down cut spirals.. I did get bits from my dentist that work real well. Little tiny guys.

Welcome to the OLF
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Thu Jun 07, 2007 1:27 am ]
Post subject: 
Lexan is the clear material to use not plexiglass it is far less brittle and machines well. Also I would at least 1/4" thick lexan if making a base. I have two StewMac bases and have be toying with the idea of making a Lexan bottom plate for one of them. I use a Foredom rotary tool for inlaying and use down cut bits. My experiance with dremels is that their bearing races either wear out too quick and or the bearings them selves have too much run out. With that said they are fine for a part time usage but if used every day they wear out and run out too quickly in my opinion.
Author:  Ricardo [ Thu Jun 07, 2007 2:20 am ]
Post subject: 
I made a knock-off of the Stewmac base out of 1/4" plexiglass scrap I had laying around.  Cost about $4 for stainless pan head machine screws.  For a few bucks more I could add a spring and some other parts to make it easier to adjust.  I move the bit in or out of the collette for depth adjustment. Works just fine. 
Author:  charliewood [ Thu Jun 07, 2007 2:40 am ]
Post subject: 
[QUOTE=MichaelP] Lexan is the clear material to use not plexiglass it is far less brittle and machines well. Also I would at least 1/4" thick lexan if making a base. I have two StewMac bases and have be toying with the idea of making a Lexan bottom plate for one of them. I use a Foredom rotary tool for inlaying and use down cut bits. My experiance with dremels is that their bearing races either wear out too quick and or the bearings them selves have too much run out. With that said they are fine for a part time usage but if used every day they wear out and run out too quickly in my opinion.[/QUOTE]

There is an excellent article on Frank Fords site FRETS that deals with the problem of repairing a dremel with bearing problems,
Im sure that you could potentially upgrade the bearings if you wanted to... although as has been pointed out newer dremels just dont have the snot they used to, and many have switch to higher torque alternatives.
Cheers
Charliewood
PS welcome to the OLF!
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Thu Jun 07, 2007 2:42 am ]
Post subject: 
If careful Plexiglas will work. but it is not a machinable material due to its brittleness. Are you sure it is not lexan? They look to the eye pretty much the same. And some hardware stores some times miss label lexan as Plexiglas or high impact plexiglas. If you have some scrap left drill a hole in it with say a 1/4" drill. Plexiglas will crack due to the drilling stress. Lexan will not.
Author:  Ricardo [ Thu Jun 07, 2007 3:20 am ]
Post subject: 

[QUOTE=MichaelP]If careful Plexiglas will work. but it is not a machinable material due to its brittleness. Are you sure it is not lexan? They look to the eye pretty much the same. And some hardware stores some times miss label lexan as Plexiglas or high impact plexiglas. If you have some scrap left drill a hole in it with say a 1/4" drill. Plexiglas will crack due to the drilling stress. Lexan will not.[/QUOTE]

Could be lexan.  I was able to cut it on the band saw and countersink the panhead screws on the drill press with no problem.  I like having transparency for this jig, unlike the Stewmac base.
Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Thu Jun 07, 2007 3:26 am ]
Post subject: 
[QUOTE=Ricardo]
[QUOTE=MichaelP]If careful Plexiglas will work. but it is not a machinable material due to its brittleness. Are you sure it is not lexan? They look to the eye pretty much the same. And some hardware stores some times miss label lexan as Plexiglas or high impact plexiglas. If you have some scrap left drill a hole in it with say a 1/4" drill. Plexiglas will crack due to the drilling stress. Lexan will not.[/QUOTE]Could be lexan.  I was able to cut it on the band saw and countersink the panhead screws on the drill press with no problem.  I like having transparency for this jig, unlike the Stewmac base.[/QUOTE]

Yep if you were able to do all that it is Lexan
Author:  1bordeaux [ Thu Jun 07, 2007 4:18 am ]
Post subject: 
Hi Guys,

If I may add: I may use down shear bits if routing spruce, but for most everything, I use up shear carbide 1/32" end mills. The Up cut allows the chips to clear the blades, prolonging life and sharpness of the bit. (it runs cooler too).
The down cut pushes the chips down, into the slot, and creates more heat/ friction on the bit. I also find that I break them much easier, and they're more expensive than the up shear type.

As Dave and I discussed during the ASIA inlay class, a sharp up shear bit run at high speed will cut almost as clean as a down shear.
Dave has gone to high rpm,(50-70,000) mini air die grinders, while i still use one of my good old dremels.

ALso, Lexan is the way to go for all the reasons stated above. if you find a place that has scraps, pieces large enough for bases and small cauls can usually be had for free.

Food for thought!

Paul
Author:  burbank [ Thu Jun 07, 2007 6:46 am ]
Post subject: 
A good basic inlay tutorial at soundsalon.com too.
Author:  Bob Garrish [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 2:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
Acrylic (plexiglass is a trade name for it) can be sawn, machined, and drilled. I know, because I make a lot of my products from it. But it definitely takes a special touch to work with the stuff, and drilling is 'real fun' to say the least...
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