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Repair advice appreciated
http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=12589
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Author:  erikbojerik [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 3:58 am ]
Post subject: 

OK...this is my first participation in this incredibly resourceful
forum.  You folks have Rich Fryovanni to thank (or blame) for
leading me here.



So here's my dilemma; the body of my very first acoustic project met
the concrete floor of the shop a few days ago, enough to crack both
sides and the top as well.  I had already strung it up in the
white, and I was rather pleased with the result; then this happened
after spraying the 2nd coat of clear coat.  After pondering a
funeral pyre, I decided instead to work on my repair skills and bring
it back to life.



As well, I made two big rookie mistakes on this one.  I butted the top & back braces against the linings instead of letting them in, and 
no side bracing.  I have some ideas I'd like to run past y'all,
for fixing these problems.  I've all but decided to remove both
the back and top before tackling this.







Top cracks; wicking in CA and supporting underneath with cloth tape and HHG.



Side cracks; same deal, dry fit, wick in CA, support inside with cloth tape and HHG.



Brace ends too short; gluing
new extra-wide kerfed linings on the rim at the locations of the
braces, notched to support the existing braces.  Leave the rest of
the linings alone.



Side braces; cloth tape & HHG with the ends of the tape lapping over the existing linings.



What say ye?



Author:  WaddyThomson [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 4:08 am ]
Post subject: 

I say Welcome to OLF!  It sure is hard to keep a good thing secret! 
I am a terminal time first builder, so I can't help with the problem, but someone will.  It sure looks like you have your hands full.  Sorry that happened to you.  Must feel terrible to string one up and like what you have then have it taken away with an accident like that.


Author:  Pwoolson [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 4:38 am ]
Post subject: 

Your fixes look pretty spot on with one exception. I'd stay from CA on the top. The crack will stand out like a toupe' with a chin strap.
I'm a big proponent of stopping the braces at the linings (not notching them into the linings) BUT you have to scallop them down so they are 0" tall at the linings. If you leave them thick, you'll have brace popping issues. So rather than trying to scab in a psudo brace with kerfed lining, just taper them down so they go to 0". It will be a lightly braced guitar but most first builds are way overbuilt anyway.

Author:  crazymanmichael [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 6:00 am ]
Post subject: 

i would follow paul's advice regarding the use of the ca here. the top cracks appear to be grainline cracks so i would recommend thin hhg, or failing that white/yellow glue. i would stud the cracks,and forget the cloth.

same with the sides.

as far as the side braces go i would use popcicle stick side praces rather than the cloth.

Author:  tippie53 [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:07 am ]
Post subject: 

    There are many opportunities here. There is no one way so the advice given here is good. On horrid damage like this I would use a thin inner veneer that is cross grained. .030 or the popsicle braces as others have suggested.
     You have your work cut out for you. Learn from this mishap. I think you can salvage this piece. I agree CA on the top is a no no. I also think thin HHG or in place of that I would go with white glue and a cleat under it.
john hall

Author:  JJ Donohue [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 11:23 am ]
Post subject: 

Consider Fish Glue for the side crack repair as well as the top. Same result as HHG but with a lot more time to work with.

Author:  erikbojerik [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 12:00 pm ]
Post subject: 

Thanks for the replies and advice.  I'll avoid CA on the top.



Fish glue....sounds like a good alternative to HHG, but I've read that
its hygroscopic and that mere humidity will weaken it.  Given that
Maryland summers are typically 195% humidity (and my garage is not
climate controlled), should I be concerned?



Author:  WaddyThomson [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 2:28 pm ]
Post subject: 

From what I have found, humidity shouldn't be a problem with Fish Glue.  I wouldn't build a boat with it though.  Some makers, Romanillos, for one, are using it exclusively because it has all the same properties as HHG, but without the heat.  The only thing that is different is that it takes 12 hours to cure, but grabs quickly, and draws the parts together like HHG.

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