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| Author: | KenH [ Fri Jun 29, 2007 4:57 am ] |
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I have been looking at these machines for quite some time and wondered if anyone has tried one of them for milling bridges or inlay work ? Seems like a good idea, but I dont know a thing about CNC and dont know what the learning curve would be. I'd love to have one for a while to experiment with though. From the sounds of the advertising on TV it looks like these are almost idiot-proof CNC machines... anybody tried one? |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Fri Jun 29, 2007 5:09 am ] |
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I worked with one at a demo at our local Sears. It is a pretty cool machine but the demo machine they had a bit of play in either the tool collet or the travel carriage. Not much but enough to for me to not spend the money  I am sure this machine being used for demos has had a lot of abuse moving from store to store so I don't know if this is real issue or not.
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| Author: | Sylvan [ Fri Jun 29, 2007 5:57 am ] |
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To do serious CNC inlay work is a two step process. You must use PC software to draw the inlay and create a computer file. I use SolidWorks. It is not easy but is masterable for doing those things that I need in making guitars (making bridges, doing inlays, jigs and fixtures). Then the computer file must be exported to software that supports your CNC machine. These are exportable and importable as ".stl files". Then, your machine's software will create a "cut path" to make the part and generate a computer file that the computer will send to your machine. Part of that process is determining the size bit that will allow the part to be made. In doing most pearl/abalone inlay work, I use either a 1/64" or 1/32" bit (think about how a round bit is going to cut a square corner). Your computer file and the machine file must be optimized for the size bit you need to use. I looked at the machines you are talking about. They will not allow you to use these small bits. Therefore, for inlay work, they are useless. I have been working with a Roland MDX-20 for the past six months. I am now able to do my Wells logo and rout the pocket for it within .001" tolerances. I make all of my bridges with the machine and am slowly remaking all of my jigging where precision is absolutely necessary. See the picture of me holding CNC jigging on the front page of my website. The headstock and jig fit with tolerances of <.005". I am working with a 3D artist to try to develop a package of pre-drawn CNC files that can be used with the Roland MDX-20 to do, for instance, a belly and pyramid bridge, tree of life fingerboard, etc. We are considering a package sale of a machine, and the files to make the above in such a way that an owner could make these parts within a couple of hours of setting up the machine. It is not ready yet but is coming down the pike. Check cncguitars.com for news on when it happens! Whatever you consider, make sure the bits will cut the designs you want. That machines you mention will not do that! |
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| Author: | Sylvan [ Fri Jun 29, 2007 7:05 am ] |
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The site you want to check for what we are planning is cncguitar.com NOT cncguitars.com. No edit button! |
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| Author: | KenH [ Fri Jun 29, 2007 7:17 am ] |
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Thanks for the input! I'll keep checking the website and see what you have. Need a dummy to test drive one for you? |
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| Author: | Sylvan [ Fri Jun 29, 2007 10:52 am ] |
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We are busy trying to put together the quick tutorial and the sample files so you can make things right away. I started this in February and, with my friend's help was making a pyramid bridge the very first day I set up the machine. So I am the dummy tester. Since I knew nothing, I get to be the one who tests everything. When I am satisfied that I can do it, then we will put it out there! there is a learning curve but, using another's knowledge, the curve becomes very short! |
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