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| I made a mistake, help please http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=12695 |
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| Author: | JasonAnthony [ Tue Jul 03, 2007 3:27 pm ] |
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Hi guys I just put my neck and heel block on the L-0 I am makingfor my first. I realized after, that I jumped the gun and glued the neck block facing the back. I am using a bolt on 12 fret block from stew mac so its already shaped. I was wanting to know the best, safest way to remove it. I realized after that the flat edge for my top was facing down and the cruved edge of the back was up. I am using titebond 1. How do I fix this safely |
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| Author: | KenH [ Tue Jul 03, 2007 3:36 pm ] |
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A hot knife (super thin putty knife) should loosen the glue joint. I would try this first by trying to work the hot knife into the glue joint and gently pry the block off of the sides.. You will need to keep heating the knife as it cools off. You can also try heating the joint with a regular old clothes iron. The steam feature on most irons would come in handy also. |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:31 pm ] |
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don't worry, you aren't the first nor will you be the last. the suggestion to use an iron is a good way to get the block free, though i would not go with the steam. it will just swell the side wood as there is no way to get the steam into the into the joint and you will have to wait a goodly while to re-glue the block. a heat gun or hair dryer will also work well. but if you have an edge banding iron it would be my choice of tool as it keeps the heat localized to where you are working and is small enough so that you are unlikely to heat yourself(a good thing) and small enough not to get in the way. it is best to have several knives, and thin them on a belt sander till they are quite flexible, then hand sand the sharp edges to slightly blunt them. you want the working edge thin but not sharp so it won't dig in. warm the side opposite the block. when it is quite hot to touch, start trying to work a knife into one of the corners and down a side of the block. the knife should slip in with some resistance but without any great pressure. as soon as you have room, slip a second knife in where you have already broken the glue line with the first to keep the glue from re-adhering. alternatively start the second knife from the other end of the block. do not lever at the wood or you will split it. just slip and slide the knives, using as many as you need. for a task like this i would probably use three. when you have the first side free, then do the same with the other. good luck. |
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| Author: | bob J [ Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:49 pm ] |
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I initially use Crazymanmichael's suggestion of an iron-with some cloth between wood and iron, and I have never used another. Works like a charm-and is easier than you think--don't force- when it's hot enough it will seoarate easily. |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:08 am ] |
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Yep .. good old clothes iron .. you will have it off in about 5 minutes from plugging it in .. med high heat. Misaligned blocks and headplates are no match !!! |
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| Author: | Dave Anderson [ Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:25 am ] |
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A lot of us have made this same mistake so don't worry too much. These suggestions are all right on and I agree that a clothes iron will do the job just fine.And be careful with the thin knives. Don't rush and Good luck with it. |
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| Author: | Louis Freilicher [ Wed Jul 04, 2007 6:17 am ] |
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Frank Ford has a good tutorial on preparing a joint separating knife here Good luck and take it slow. Louis |
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