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| Nitro Question http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=13133 |
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| Author: | Mark Hanna [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:07 am ] |
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Hi guys,I have a quick question. I have read on LINT website, http://www.lint.org/TechNotes/Mayes/MayesNotes.html where John Mayes, (maybe John could chime in here,) says that after the first three coats of lacq, you should sand before doing the next three.I thought when using lacq, it "melts or bonds" into itself so sanding isn't necessary. I do understand about leveling. John, if your reading this, I follow your proceedure, and it works great for me, and I'm very greatful for you putting it out there. I'm just wondering if that step is necessary. Thanks in advance. |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:49 am ] |
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I scuff sand every 3 coats, and only level sand if it's visually not flat. Otherwise I leave it until the penultimate two coats, level sand with 600 (400 only if there are visible imperfections), shoot two thin final coats, and then don't touch it with anything coarser than 1200 if at all possible. |
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| Author: | Bill Greene [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:59 am ] |
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I'm shooting my first nitro as we speak, and the proposed schedule is basically what these guys are saying: Pore fill, sand, pore fill, sand (320) 3-4 coats, sanded back level (320 - 400) 3 coats, drop fill as needed, sand back level (600) 2-3 coats as needed, sanding (600) Additional coats as needed Buff (I'm doing traditional buffing by hand, but I'm testing with Micromesh) |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 2:01 am ] |
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Like other have indicated, it is just a leveling thing. It has nothing to do with burn in. By leveling every 3-4 coats as you go. You run a much lower risk if sand troughs at final leveling. Theoreticly you can spay all your coats allow to cure for 30 days then final level and rub out but you run a higher risk of having sand troughs to repair. |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 2:03 am ] |
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Like other have indicated, it is just a leveling thing. It has nothing to do with burn in. By leveling every 3-4 coats as you go. You run a much lower risk of sand through at final leveling. Theoretically you can spay all your coats allow to cure for 30 days then final level and rub out but you run a higher risk of having sand through to repair. |
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| Author: | KenH [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 2:14 am ] |
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I basically do tha same as above. The thing that puzzles me is that on the side of the can of Behlen's stringed instrument lacquer (from Stewmac), it has instructions for a MUCH faster schedule for finishing. Three coats in one day an hour apart, then let stand overnight and then level sand, then 3 more coats an hour apart, then buff to a finish after 48 hours. (I dont have the can in front of me, but I'm pretty sure that is how it reads).This is obviously much different than everyone recomends. As far as final buffing, I have had good luck doing it by hand using Macguiar's plastic polishing cream (meant to be used on fogged plastic headlights on cars). It takes little effort to polish the guitar to a mirror shine by hand using this stuff. |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Thu Aug 09, 2007 12:18 am ] |
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I tend to do 3 coats per day for two days, level anything that's really, bad, do three more, level sand, final mist coat, and done. This is with fairly thin coats. I won't even touch waterbased finishes before a month has passed. |
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