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Installing Clear Pickguards http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=13207 |
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Author: | David R White [ Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:48 am ] |
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I am getting ready to install my first clear pickguard. I guess the challenge with this is making sure you don't get any air bubbles or dirt underneath which will show through. I stopped by Frank Ford's site and he has a nice tutorial where he suggests flowing water under the pickguard as it goes down and squeezing it out to help avoid trapping air underneath. This seems a little counter-intuitive - it might weaken the adhesive and I don't think anyone likes the idea of spreading water on a guitar. Has anyone used this method? Any comments? |
Author: | David Collins [ Tue Aug 14, 2007 12:21 pm ] |
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I've always used water for clear pickguards, tap plates, golpeadores or whatever you prefer to call them and it works wonderfully. The reason it works so well is that liquids do not compress. If air bubbles are trapped under the guard, they will compress as you squeeze over them and expand to reappear as you pass. Liquids do not compress, so it will actually be forced out as you squeegee along. I did however find some clear pickguard material that I believe came from LMI some time ago in which the adhesive reacted with water. I have no idea what they were using, as I have never seen a contact adhesive that had any reaction to water. Normally it is totally indifferent to moisture. I don't know if they are still selling the same material with the same adhesive, but it was quite a mess. That was the only exception I've ever encountered, and most pickguard adhesives will not have any problems with water. You could soak them before putting them on if you wanted and it would still stick just fine. |
Author: | Hank Mauel [ Tue Aug 14, 2007 1:09 pm ] |
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I do them dry, but then again the Flying Walendas USED to work without a net, too. Here's a write up How-to-do-it from a long time back: Just some notes of advice... Practice cutting out a template first. When satisfied, use it to guide your cutting of the plastic. Cut out with real sharp hair scissors to avoid a funky edge that won't want to lie flat. Have a scrupulously clean area...guitar top, your hands, no wind currents, etc. You'll be amazed what a little spec can do under that plastic. Once cut to shape, position it as you want it. With masking tape, (2 pieces is usually enough) tape it down to the top near the waist area so as to make a "hinge". Having removed the strings before all this, fold the guard back (on the "hinge") so that the white backing paper is now facing up. With sharp finger nails, start to separate the lower edge( by the hinge) of the backing paper from the clear plastic. DON'T TOUCH THE GLUE SURFACE WITH YOUR FINGERS. It will pick up your fingerprint and they will show up once it is laid in position. Now, carefully lift the backing paper from the guard as you press up from the outside (face side) of the plastic. As you peel the backing with one hand, gently press the face side down onto the guitar top, working up toward the sound hole avoiding bubbles. The masking tape hinge holds the plastic in place as you work up and is removed when plastic is finally in place. When it is all down, rub over it with a soft towel to help it stay down. It may look a little hazy at first, but after a day or two, it will conform to any of the minute irregularities on the top surface and practically disappear. Hope this helps! |
Author: | David R White [ Tue Aug 14, 2007 1:32 pm ] |
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Great, thanks for the tips. I think I'll try it with water. |
Author: | Bruce Dickey [ Tue Aug 14, 2007 2:09 pm ] |
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Hey everyone, it's Hank! Hi Hank. |
Author: | Marc Lupien [ Tue Aug 14, 2007 2:33 pm ] |
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In a prior life, I was shown how to install lettering on cars and vans. The same air bubble problem could occur. We used water with a little dishwashing soap in. We could place the lettering on the van without any adhesive touching the finish and slide it around to the desired position. Then, we gently manually pressed on a corner to compress the water out, thus adhering that corner on the finish and finally squegee the rest of the soapy water out. I haven't tried that on a guitar since, like Therry, I do not like clear pick-guards very much. If I ever "have" to install one, I'll do it this way. Marc |
Author: | Hank Mauel [ Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:57 am ] |
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[QUOTE=drwhite] Great, thanks for the tips. I think I'll try it with water.[/QUOTE] Same "lay down" procedure will work with water. Cleanliness is still the watchword for either procedure. Good luck! |
Author: | Hank Mauel [ Wed Aug 15, 2007 1:00 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Bruce Dickey] Hey everyone, it's Hank! Hi Hank.[/QUOTE] Hi Bruce. Yes, It's me...the rumors of my demise having been greatly exagerated! |
Author: | Todd Rose [ Wed Aug 15, 2007 10:15 pm ] |
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I've only done two so far, but, like Hank, I've done them dry with no problems whatsoever. |
Author: | David R White [ Mon Aug 20, 2007 1:03 pm ] |
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I thought I'd report back after trying this out on Sunday. It works like a charm. I think the water helps quite a bit to get the air out. I didn't get water in until I had about 1/2" of the pick guard down and the dry 1/2" was definitely harder to get the air out of than the rest. Thanks for the help. |
Author: | David Collins [ Mon Aug 20, 2007 1:27 pm ] |
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Gases compress, liquids don't. That's why it's easier to squeeze water pockets out than air pockets. |
Author: | Todd Rose [ Mon Aug 20, 2007 10:45 pm ] |
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As I said, I've only done two of these so far (dry), but by rolling the pickguard down carefully, I found that air bubbles never formed at all. It just wasn't an issue. |
Author: | Howard Klepper [ Tue Aug 21, 2007 3:53 am ] |
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I'd like to hear from anyone who has figured out a way to make the edges of that clear pickguard material (the .011" self-adhesive stuff) become invisible. I haven't been able to get sanding and buffing to work. |
Author: | Hank Mauel [ Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:24 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Howard Klepper] I'd like to hear from anyone who has figured out a way to make the edges of that clear pickguard material (the .011" self-adhesive stuff) become invisible. I haven't been able to get sanding and buffing to work.[/QUOTE] The LMI stuff I use is about .006 thick. Cut out with a REALLY SHARP hair cutting scissor it leaves virtually no "line", although visible if you really look hard. At the Festival last weekend more than a few people asked if I put pick guards on my instruments (all of which had clear units) so they certainly are not jumping off the guitar top, visibility-wise. The sharp scissor helps keep the cut line transparent vs the possibility of a "white-ish opaqueness" on the edges with a less sharp instrument. Don't ask me how I know. |
Author: | Howard Klepper [ Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:30 am ] |
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I've been using the thicker stuff. My fear about the thin stuff is that it is too flexible to prevent pick strokes from marring the top right through it. |
Author: | Philip Perdue [ Tue Aug 21, 2007 11:35 am ] |
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I didn't know so many of you disliked clear pickguards. My thinking is that it won't cover up beautiful wood. Then again, I play the ukulele. Here is a clear pickguard on two sides. Philip |
Author: | Hank Mauel [ Tue Aug 21, 2007 2:49 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=Howard Klepper] I've been using the thicker stuff. My fear about the thin stuff is that it is too flexible to prevent pick strokes from marring the top right through it.[/QUOTE] I've used it from the beginning and so far (10 years) no one has complained about pick strokes through the (actually) .005 stuff. But maybe my players are a kinder, gentler lot. |
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