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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 12:42 am 
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Walnut
Walnut
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Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 12:41 pm
Posts: 37
Location: Canada
First name: Wolf
Last Name: Moehrle
City: Neustadt
State: Ontario
Zip/Postal Code: N0G 2M0
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur

I'm making solid-body electrics with a polyurithane finish that will have to be wet sanded and buffed.


7 years ago I worked for a short time at Lado Guitars in Lindsay and sanded a few guitars there. They used a light oil-bassed material as a lubricant instead of water, but I don't know what it was. It was a little like Kerosene, but lighter and less smelly.


Any suggestions?



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 12:52 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2005 7:46 am
Posts: 2227
Location: Canada
Distilled water and a drop or two of dish soap. Change and clean bowl thoroughly in between each paper grit change...

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 1:05 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 6:25 pm
Posts: 2749
Location: Netherlands
Mineral spirits works as well, if you're worried about swelling.

I use the water and dish-soap method myself, just...very sparingly. You do NOT want water getting into any drilled holes.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 1:21 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 10:11 am
Posts: 2761
Location: Tampa Bay
First name: Dave
Last Name: Anderson
City: Clearwater
State: Florida
Zip/Postal Code: 33755
Country: United States
I use a little Murphys oil soap in water.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 3:53 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2005 10:04 am
Posts: 2060
Understanding the purpose helps you make these decisions much easier.
The liquid is used to carry away sanded debris and extend the life of the
paper by keeping it from clogging. It's not there so much as a lubricant.
Oil, water, mineral spirits, they all would do essentially the same thing.
They each have their +'s and -'s.

Water is cheap and available, but it swells wood and crack's the finish if it
gets in to a screw hole or unfinished edge. Soap is often added to brake
the surface tension of the water, so that it flows out on the finish and
paper rather than forming little balls that roll off. This is all I've ever used,
as I've seen no reason to move elsewhere. You just have to be careful
around areas of bare wood. I had one or two cracking incidents in my first
few guitars, and none in the few hundred since.

Mineral spirits, naptha, kerosene, etc., won't swell wood, but they stink,
they're messy, and and are extremely flammable. I certainly wouldn't be
using these with an electric random orbital sander, unless it was an air
one. Of course electric random orbitals don't care for water much either,
but they won't cause an explosion. Most of these are relatively slow
evaporating, but may also evaporate too quickly, defeating the purpose
by leaving the debris behind that they were supposed to carry away.

You can use non-water, non-flammable things like mineral oil, or any
number of other oils. These won't swell wood, won't explode, and won't
prematurely evaporate. They may stain the wood if they get in, and can
be a real nuisance to clean up. If it weren't for the whole wood thing, a
machine cutting oil would probably be perfect.

Being a water-user with limited experience to the others, I may be
missing some things here and only giving one side. So if there are any
other spirit or oil users out here, please speak up.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 4:53 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2005 7:58 pm
Posts: 2946
Location: United States
    Machine cutting oils are essentially water and oil combined with a detergent so they mix. There's no reason why mineral oil and dishwashing detergent together couldn't be used as a substitute.

    I've used just water, very sparingly, to avoid contact with unfinished sections. It doesn't require much.

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Covina, CA

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