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Allied New Truss Rod (Pics)
http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=13429		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Colin S [ Wed Aug 29, 2007 1:10 am ]
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Thanks Hesh you have answered my questions from the earlier thread. They're shiny because they use stainless steel.

Colin
Author:  Dave Anderson [ Wed Aug 29, 2007 1:23 am ]
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Yep,They are very smooth indeed. I like em a lot.
Kudos to Mark B. for these nice truss rods.
Author:  KenH [ Wed Aug 29, 2007 3:40 am ]
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Nice comparison Hesh!  Thanks for posting this.
Author:  Blanchard [ Wed Aug 29, 2007 2:11 pm ]
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I happy you guys are liking the new rods!

Just to clarify something....
They are not 100% stainless. The round rod is stainless, the rest of the parts are plain steel. They are shiny because they are plated. The tail end is not shiny because they have to weld that part after the plating is done and the heat burns it off.

Mark
Author:  Kent Chasson [ Wed Aug 29, 2007 5:15 pm ]
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Anyone know the weight?
Author:  Kent Chasson [ Thu Aug 30, 2007 2:21 am ]
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Thanks.
Author:  Josh H [ Thu Aug 30, 2007 3:22 am ]
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Hesh,


Do you install the rod so that it is right under the fingerboard or are you putting the filler strip over the rod?


 


Josh
Author:  Don Williams [ Thu Aug 30, 2007 3:27 am ]
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Yeah, Mark's idea is a good one. I'll have to order some to try if I ever come out of retirement.
Author:  Blanchard [ Thu Aug 30, 2007 7:48 am ]
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One word.....

"use a filler strip"

OK, that was 4 words....

All of these double rods work better, have less backlash and are less likely to rattle if you put a filler over them. There are instructions on the Allied website. It is so easy to do, I can't see any reason not to !!!

Mark
Author:  SniderMike [ Thu Aug 30, 2007 8:32 am ]
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So Mark, just to clarify the Allied instructions, you are epoxying the filler
strip into the slot AND onto the top of the rod?
Author:  Blanchard [ Thu Aug 30, 2007 8:57 am ]
Post subject: 

[QUOTE=SniderMike]So Mark, just to clarify the Allied instructions, you are epoxying the filler

strip into the slot AND onto the top of the rod?[/QUOTE]

Yes, epoxied to the sides of the slot and to the backbone of the truss rod. I drag the back of the rod over my 80 grit belt sander to rough it up prior to gluing.

Mark
Author:  SniderMike [ Thu Aug 30, 2007 11:28 am ]
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Got it. Thanks Mark.
Author:  Josh H [ Thu Aug 30, 2007 12:59 pm ]
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Thanks Hesh, and Mark


I have used the old Allied rods for years and the LMI rods as well. I never used a filler strip (and have never had a problem) but I will give it a try in the future. And I'll be trying the new Allied rod next time I place an order.


BTW is there a set thickness that should be used for the strip?
Author:  Blanchard [ Fri Aug 31, 2007 1:46 am ]
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The rod itself is about .375 at the ends. I make the slot .400" deep. I start with a filler strip about 3/16" thick. When the filler strip is clamped in it will sink in more near the middle of the rod than it does at the ends. This gets rid of the extra space between the two rods, eliminating rattles and making the rod work quicker and more precisely. When the glue is dry, plane the filler off flush with the neck shaft.

When it's all finished, the filler will be quite thin at the ends and thicker in the middle.

Mark

Author:  Daniel M [ Sat Sep 01, 2007 2:46 am ]
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I don't have anything to add except that I tried a few early this year... and immediately ordered a dozen more.
The new thread system works very smoothly & has all the power you need to bend the neck way beyond where you would ever need to.
Once I received these new rods, I gave away the old ones I had lying around.
Author:  David Collins [ Sat Sep 01, 2007 3:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
The one thing I would wish to change would be the manufacturing of the
threads. The LMI rod looks like it could be die cut (least desirable), The
Allied threads appear turned (acceptable), but the $6 double action rods I
get from AllParts have a larger diameter rod, tapered at the ends and with
rolled threads. Many folks don't acknowledge how important the
grain within a steel rod is, and cutting the threads will always give the
weakest result. I choose rolled threads whenever and wherever I have the
option, as they are much stronger.

Of course in practical terms I guess it's rather a non-issue related to this
style rod. The length of the threaded area on which the load is distributed
is far beyond the critical range in which stripping would be likely. I highly
doubt there is any chance these threads would ever strip (the welds would
break long before I'm sure), and well turned threads can be smoother
than rolled ones. Plus the AllParts rods are only available in lengths suited
to electric necks and bass guitars.

In other words, nevermind..... I guess the benefit of the smoothness of
turned threads likely outweighs the increased strength benefit of rolled
threads in this case.

I still prefer traditional compression rods, though when I start building
again I will probably use a compression rod that will function as double
action. For these traditional rods, I do hold it much more important to use
rolled threads over cut ones.
Author:  Bob Garrish [ Sat Sep 01, 2007 6:09 pm ]
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Up to a pretty crazy amount of tension, I think the adjustment nut will always be the weak point on even the best made rods. The metal's weakened by the weld, it's a terrible place to put a weld, and it experiences torque whereas the other parts which only experience tension.

We could always machine the nut and rod from one solid piece, then differentially harden the threads while leaving the taper to the rod soft enough to take the stresses. Any takers for the $200 truss rod?
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