I think it was ultimately someone with the handle psl something, that posted a pick for me of his radiusing jig that made the light bulb click in my head (thanks for that psl) and now making my own radius dishes is a snap.

I am hoping for such success on a fretting jig.

I saw a pic somewhere, but can't seem to find the right key words to find it in the archives. What I am looking for is some pics of jigs ya'll use to fret finger boards using the thin kerf blades on a table saw. I recently was given a nearly new blade by a local repair man (6 inch 110 tooth count, super thin kerf) for the table saw.

I remember someone's jig resembling a sled on the table saw with a mark for where the cut is made, attaching a scale guide to the finger board and moving it to align with the cut mark. I am trying to figure out the best way to attach the board to the scale guide, maybe tape?

Pics would be so much appreciated, I guess i am a visual learner.

thanks,

jon

thanks for the tip, i will check sylvan's site.

the blade the guy gave me was an lmi blade from a year or so ago, i thin the kerf is .023.

thanks

stan

Here is my fret slot cutting jig. I just cut some slots today using a template mde by our newest sponsor, St Lutherie. My sled sits really tight in the slots on the bed of the table saw. So tight that it will not slide without some car wax applied to both the table saw and the bottom of the sled. The green stuff you see on the table saw is turtle wax.

Here are 4 shots of my sled. Hope you "get the picture" 

i use double sided foam tape to hold the template to the fingerboard. It releases easily when one fingerboard is done and a new one can be stuck right in it's place.

Hope this helps.

Ken

Thanks,

the pic I had seen was from jon kendall's website.

his guitarmaking blogspot sitte is really helpful,

thanks again.

Jon, nice to see two people that spell jon correctly

I forgot to mention....

the bolt you see sticking through the rail of the sled is an indexing stud for the template. I kept shaving this down with a file, one stroke at a time, until it just would fit into the slot in the template. VERY precisely. You dont want ANY side to side movement of the sled or your frets will be off.

Also, I got the blade from another one of our sponsors, Shane at High Mountain Tonewoods. It required some blade stabilizers, which I got from my local woodcraft store for $18.

Dont try to cut anything except a fret slot with one of these blades. They overheat quickly and will warp at a moment's notice. They cut fret slots like a champ though.