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| New Drum Sander (Pics) http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=13872 |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:46 am ] |
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I have seen real small machines like it that the feed is by pully on a carrier plate some what like a re-saw rig where a given weight pulls a carrier tolly or plate aginst the friction of the drum |
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| Author: | JohnAbercrombie [ Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:55 am ] |
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Hesh- This looks like a version/copy of the "V" Sander, which somebody mentioned here a while back, as I recall. V Sander It looks like it would work for surface finishing, but not for accurate thicknessing. The 'mop' is an accessory for bowls, etc??? Why anybody would buy one of these (at $700 without stand) instead of a Performax or Delta beats me..... 1/3 hp will be pretty gutless as well. Can you tell I won't be the first to buy one and post a 'shop test'? 
Cheers John |
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| Author: | Bill Greene [ Wed Oct 03, 2007 7:04 am ] |
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I don't know...but I watched the videos on that V-sander not long ago, and it looked like a very nice product. One of the advantage to the v-sander is the paper didn't heat up at all, so it had very long life and no scorching, etc. Not saying this is better or worse application for guitar building than a Performax (I have the 10-20) but it might be a good thing. |
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| Author: | WaddyThomson [ Wed Oct 03, 2007 7:11 am ] |
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If you understand the concept of the V Sander, there is no need for high power. There is almost no pressure involved. When you set it up, you set it so the paper, attached via hook & loop, is just below the surface of the flat surface. When you turn it on, the Centrifugal force puts the paper in touch with the surface. It reduces burning to non existence, sandpaper lasts forever, because there is almost no heat or pressure. Dust falls into the box, because the design eliminates static electricity, and all changes in depth of cut are by using lower grit counts - you never have to reset the depth. It will gouge the work if you stop it over the drum, but will not burn it. Because you can't set thickness, it may not be ideal for thickness sanding, but would work for it by multiple passes and frequent measuring. The one I saw had a fence, that would actually allow accurate enough edge sanding for jointing. You just have to maintain an even feed rate. The Sand-Flee is a knock off of the V-sander, with metal housing and some added adaptability. I don't think there is any automatic feed. If there is it would have to be from powered rollers, like auto feeders for saws and jointers. I have never used one directly, but have seen them in use, and was absolutely amazed. You can buy all the parts and make one for somewhere in the $300 range. A washing machine motor would be fine. Power is not an issue. |
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| Author: | KenH [ Wed Oct 03, 2007 10:50 am ] |
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There is no power feed to this machine. YOu have to pull/push the wood over the top of the spinning drum yourself. They say that dust is almost non-existant with this machine, but I wonder how accurate you can be trying to thickness wood with it. You can sand stuff smooth, but thats about as far as it goes.
Threre was a thread on this a while back, and a link to a video of the guy who made it demonstrating how to use it. I cant find the thread right now... |
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| Author: | Will Groff [ Wed Oct 03, 2007 1:10 pm ] |
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Well, I did in fact buy the v drum sander kit a few months back. It is really quite nice in many aspects, but thickness sanding is only possible if the piece that you are working with is already of a uniform thickness, no variations or flaws. Any variations are simply repeated as you pass over the drum. Currently, I'm moving, so everything came to a stop, stored in boxes etc, first move in 20 yrs....kind of disorienting. The answer is to just use it as you would the performax etc type sanders, build a table, use it from above. It is absolutely amazing how well it works with regard to dust, and the quality of the end result from velcro on drum. Of course, a dust removal system will be needed using it from the top. Will Groff |
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| Author: | Chris Oliver [ Thu Oct 04, 2007 4:04 am ] |
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I can't imagine trying to sand with any consistency using this flea as pictured. It seems to be using the same principles as a jointer but the outboard table doesn't appear to adjust upward to fill the gap of the sanded off/removed wood. Without that feature, it would be pretty good at making a nice indent near the front of the stock. Maybe there is some adjustability or other features not in the photo? Imagine trying to sand down to an 1/8" with this... I guess I would have to see it in use to believe it could be useful. Of course if they're selling it, it must do something right. Right? |
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| Author: | kojohns [ Thu Oct 04, 2007 5:25 am ] |
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For smoother passes on this or similar designs, would you need to include a sheet of dense particle board (or something somewhat heavy) on top of the workpiece to ensure that it does not rise up off the table surface, even a tiny bit? Or is that not an issue if you travel slow enough? Not sure if anyone is wanting to build a drum sander, but there are some components for one now listed under the luthiersauction site. I had been pulling together items to build one based on information from this forum, but with a new baby I just don't have the time and doubt I will for the forseeable future ;-) |
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| Author: | WaddyThomson [ Thu Oct 04, 2007 6:18 am ] |
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On very thin stock that might not be a bad idea, but there is very little pressure from the paper on the stock. As I mentioned, when you pass the stock over the stopped drum, there is no contact with the paper at all - only when the drum is spinning. If you stop the stock over the spinning drum, it will make an indent at that spot, but it is easily sanded out with a few passes. I have even seen a pine board with a knot stopped directly over the drum at the spot of the knot. No buildup on the paper, and no burning on the board, and it sanded out in 3 passes. |
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| Author: | Steve H [ Tue Oct 09, 2007 3:07 pm ] |
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Hesh , I bought one of those machines last year and sent it back.The table was not absolutely flat and it didn't do a good job.You have to feed the stock manually by sliding it over the spinning drum.It doesn't work for thicknessing your stock. Just my opinions based on my experience with the machine. Also it was quite expensive. Steve H. |
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| Author: | Rick Turner [ Tue Oct 09, 2007 4:00 pm ] |
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As I see it, it's not a thickness sander, it's a finish sander. |
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| Author: | WaddyThomson [ Wed Oct 10, 2007 12:53 am ] |
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While I think it is a very cool sander, I would really agree with Rick's assessment. It really isn't designed as a thickness sander. |
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| Author: | Marc Lupien [ Wed Oct 10, 2007 3:14 pm ] |
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Rick, do you use one? If so, do you think that it is a good finish sander? |
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| Author: | Bob Garrish [ Thu Oct 11, 2007 1:07 am ] |
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It's made for flat stock sanding, there aren't a whole lot of flat areas on a guitar. It's designed for cabinet shops from what I've seen. |
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