Thanks Much!
I think I have the courage to try it now.
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| binding ledge routing pattern? http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=14113 |
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| Author: | Kirt Myers [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 12:35 am ] |
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Hi, I'm getty ready to rout my binding ledge and I was wondering how everybody else does it to avoid chipout. I know that you want to climb cut as much as possible, but I know there are places where the bit edge is still coming into endgrain, increasing the chance of chipout. Can I just start, say, at the neck block and just go all the way around in one pass or does it work better to go in sections. I'm planning on shellacing the edge before routing Also I'll be mitering the purfling at the butt wedge, so I guess I'll have to stop there too? I'm using a 1/4" carbide downspiral bit mounted in a modified router table. Similar to David Russell Youngs setup in his book. So, I'll be moving the guitar and not the router. T.I.A. Kirt |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 12:41 am ] |
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Start your cut at the widest part of the bouts and work your way inward. Here's my method: Widest part of upper bout to neck area Widest part of upper bout to waist Widest part of lower bout to waist Widest part of lower bout to tail Repeat for other side. |
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| Author: | Kirt Myers [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 1:05 am ] |
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Thanks Paul, that's about what I was thinking. Since this is my first try with this setup, I'll probably go a little shallow on the first pass and see how things go and then go full depth. Kirt |
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| Author: | Kirt Myers [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:08 am ] |
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Thanks Hesh, I remember seeing that now... sounds like the way to go. Go a little shallow with the fancy cuts, then clean up with on long cut. Cheers, Kirt |
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| Author: | Kirt Myers [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:10 am ] |
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That's ONE long cut. Bye |
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| Author: | Dave Stewart [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:25 am ] |
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I've got that Stewmac diagram taped to my williams jig as a reminder. I go full depth on all passes (no mid-operation adjustments to screw up) but I heard a tip that seems to work great - cut as per diagram, THEN clean up the "furr" with sandpaper & make another complete "second pass" (NO adjustments). Yields a clean & nicely machined channel. |
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| Author: | Arnt Rian [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:27 am ] |
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I do it like Paul, then make the final pass around the whole perimeter as in the Stewmac sketch. |
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| Author: | Kirt Myers [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:29 am ] |
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Thanks Much! I think I have the courage to try it now.
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:22 am ] |
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In reality, the directions shown are only beneficial when doing the purfling ledge - as then you are truly routing into changing grain directions of the back and top - if you are doing the binding, you are routing flat grain (assuming quartered sides) because you are only routing the ledge into the sides, not the top or back (or very little of either, as most of us use binding the same or less than the thickness of the sides) That said, I use a climb cut all the way around, and if need be, route the other way to clean up. If the bit is sharp, the ledge will be clean. I use a new bit every 20 guitars or so ... |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:28 am ] |
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I should have said that it can matter if you are NOT doing a purfling ledge, as you are routing thru top and back changing grain directions, but I find that climb cutting doesnt tear out anyway - its when you are going upwards into end grain and NOT climb cutting that tearout can be an issue - ie, from the waist towards the top of the lower bout, on the top itself. |
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| Author: | Kirt Myers [ Thu Oct 18, 2007 2:31 am ] |
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Thanks Tony. I love this place. |
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| Author: | JohnAbercrombie [ Thu Oct 18, 2007 3:27 am ] |
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Kirt- Tear-out is somewhat less likely when using a spiral bit (like Tony Karol), than when using a straight-flute bit with a bearing (like Hesh). I just climb cut all the way around, and it usually works OK- using a spiral bit. Even if you have the guide set 'full depth' you can sometimes take shallower cuts, depending on your jig setup. That can help as well. Cheers John |
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| Author: | Kirt Myers [ Thu Oct 18, 2007 3:47 am ] |
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Thanks John, I actually gave it a try last night. But I only went about 3/4 depth. Made a nice clean cut no matter where I started. I did climb cut, but it didn't seem to matter which way I came into the end grain. Now I just need to practice a little more to get the coordination down. Kirt |
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| Author: | Howard Klepper [ Thu Oct 18, 2007 3:51 am ] |
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I cut the purfling ledge as per Paul's instructions--all cuts from wide toward the center . There isn't any benefit to climb cutting if you are cutting downhill (with the grain) on a standard cut, and you don't get the potential chatter of a climb cut (although it's such a light cut it may not matter). Then climb cut all the way around for the binding, returning the router the other way to make sure it's clean. |
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| Author: | JohnAbercrombie [ Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:05 am ] |
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Howard- How (bit and direction) do you cut your rosette grooves? They usually give me more trouble than the purfling ledges. Thanks John |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Thu Oct 18, 2007 8:58 am ] |
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I cut my rosettes clockwise, but I think more important again is a sharp bit, again I use a downcut spiral, various sizes - I also french polish the area lightly to stiffen up the fibres prior to cutting the channel(s) |
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