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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 9:45 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Florida

I'm building a dread with flamed oregon myrtle. After sanding it to about 220, I notice that I dont see many, if any pores. Does this wood require pore filling?


Also, any suggestions on what binding to use on it? I has a somewhat green hue to the wood, but I dont know if this hue will last for long. I'm leaning toward rosewood bindings, but ebony looks good on it as well. would a lighter colored binding like maple look better?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 9:54 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I know somebody is going to ask, so here is the picture. Beside the myrtle is a cherry dread as well.



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 10:12 am 
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Koa
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Ken,
       Myrtle doesn't have a lot of open pores, but I still ended up filling it ( twice with Z-poxy ) before finishing with shellac , to get a glass like finish. I can't comment on a Nitro finish. It does appear to have a very light greenish hue on the lighter coloured areas.

I used fairly plain Rosewood bindings , so as to not compete with the sometimes outrageous Myrtle grain. I found Maple bindings to be a definite 'No Go " clash!




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CRAIG LAWRENCE of AUSTRALIA
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 11:11 am 
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Contributing Member
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First name: John
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Myrtle is like a cross between Koa & Maple so it has pores but they're typically small. I think I did fill my myrtle guitar, probably with Z-poxy.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 11:12 am 
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Koa
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Yep, epoxy fill 'em.   Less finish coats that way.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 11:20 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 11:44 am
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First name: Jim
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Ken - I'm finishing a myrtle drop top in nitro on a Tele right now. I concluded that there weren't many pores too, and went at it without filling. There is some sinking into the pores, though, and it took a number of coats to get to a first level sanded finish with no sinking. I'd put the epoxy on.

Jim


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 12:35 pm 
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Koa
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I am having the same debate right now, too and have settled on Cocobolo. What I have not decided is backstrip inlay or not? Most Myrtle backs are without.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 12:58 pm 
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Mahogany
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Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 11:21 am
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Kiwi,
That guitar is ridiculously beautiful. Great Job!-----Snick


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 1:42 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Kiwi, I cant believe how pretty that thing is. well done!


Thanks for the feedback. I guess it will be rosewood bonding and z-poxy.


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Ken H


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 6:06 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2006 3:48 am
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I'm currently working with some Oregon Myrtle- and had some trouble choosing binding wood- I had used rosewood on my previous two builds and wanted to try something else- so I'm trying curly Koa this time, as I have some b/w/koa/w/b binding I'd like to try with it.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 12:00 am 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2006 1:11 am
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Location: United States
I made a Myrtle guitar, used Indian Rosewood bindings, and did not pore fill. I did a French Polish on it, and couldn't be more pleased. Finish was very smooth and easy to do.
Love the stuff. It looks and sounds great!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 3:28 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 4:15 pm
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Location: Columbus,Ohio
I used the end grain saw dust and shellac. It filled the pores the first time. I also used a curly maple binding that everyone tends to love,even non-guitarist. I like to get their opinion also plus they never see my below par workmanship! Clinton


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