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Guitar #2 Progress Pics http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=14240 |
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Author: | robertD [ Fri Oct 26, 2007 8:07 am ] |
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Hello All, After enjoying the tutorial that Mr. Todd Stock performed in the thread “Outside Molds - One Method”. I asked Todd about getting spaces between mold and sides. He answered quickly with an excellent remedy on how to deal under bent, or over bent sides. Then, I got to thinking, how big a space is to big. I’ve not worked with molds before, so here’s some progress pics up for your inspection. I don’t think they’re to bad, as I can press them with my fingers with out to much pressure, except at the waist. Well, you be the judge. The first few pics are of a neck block I bought from Martin. I already had a Martin neck, so I thought trying one of their neck blocks should work. They didn’t have one for a cutaway, but I figured I could modify it, and trim one side, so as to allow for the arch of the neck heel. Other than having to trim it, it’s a very good fit. Unfortunately, I had forgot about the fretboard when trimming the block. So, I had to add back some wood (mahogany) to account for the widening of the fret board as it gets closer to the sound hole. It’s not completely sanded to fit yet, but its close. Robert Thanks for Looking, and open to all comments |
Author: | BobK [ Fri Oct 26, 2007 9:00 am ] |
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Nice job Robert. I use the Robbie O'brien style spreaders and they work fine. You can also put some double stick tape on your mold if you've got a spot that's being a little stubborn. One thought, make sure that you can get your spreader out through the soundhole when you're done. The one in the picture looks a little large. Also, is that a Blanchard style neck block. You're a brave man, but I'm sure it will come out looking great. Bob |
Author: | burbank [ Fri Oct 26, 2007 9:12 am ] |
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Pretty ambitious #2, Robert! Lookin' good! |
Author: | L. Presnall [ Fri Oct 26, 2007 9:35 am ] |
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And that's a very nice cutaway Robert! You're on your way! The hardest part is getting started and then things really move along. Keep us posted! |
Author: | BlackHeart [ Fri Oct 26, 2007 11:09 am ] |
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How much was the neckblock? I have a martin second for a neck also.
My solution to mismatch sides in forms is to bend to the male mold first, tweak that, and then make the female mold from the sides. Thats how I will do my next dred. I tried heating and pressing into the old with the blocks but it never worked. |
Author: | Bill Greene [ Fri Oct 26, 2007 11:37 am ] |
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That's a killer bend on that cutaway guy...congrats. Maybe a session on that one day for those of us that, ahem, have been too chicken to tackle it. Nice work. I like it! Keep in touch. Bill |
Author: | robertD [ Sat Oct 27, 2007 12:04 am ] |
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Thanks All, for the positive comments! Hey Bob, How have you been? Don’t know about the style of the neck block. I got it from the Martin Co. The spreader in the pic is just a temp, I figure I’m going to have to build some, or maybe buy some. BlackHeart, That neck block cost $11.50. The fit was very tight. Other than the cutaway adjustment, I had to trim off a little at the end of the tenon, and I will have to drill a new hole for the bolt. I’m going to drill it in the tenon of the neck, rather than the neck block. However, I suppose drilling a new hole in the block would work. I figured that the present hole placement in the neck block offered more leverage. Hey Bill, how’s it going? I’m all for a practice session, but I sure hope you got plenty of scrap wood around! Todd, Those spreaders look like they really do the job! Thanks for sharing! I assume you just reach in after top and back are glued in place, and loosen up the turnbuckle, then pull her through the sound hole? You know, I got to thinking about another type of spreader. Have you ever seen, to the best I can describe, a collapsible spreader? Each caul would have a pivot, or hinge, connected to 2 pieces of wood(supports) cut to the same size, with a hinge connecting the 2 supports. The supports would have to be cut at a slight angle where they are hinged, so as to allow a locking in kind action when you push on the joint. Then all one would have to do is to pull on the hinged joint, and out she comes! I’ll bet someone has already done that! Thanks again to everyone! Robert |
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