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| Saddle Arch Question http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=14373 |
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:19 pm ] |
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This may fall more into the realm of personal preference, but still I'd like to what you prefer when you fit a new (or replacement) saddle. Do you arch it to the same radius as the fretboard? Or do you prefer to make it with a slightly more pronounced radius--say, a 16" radius FB, with a 14" radius saddle? Or do you use an identical radius? I can't see going the opposite direction, but since I've opened this up to preferences, we should list that as an option as well. I've had success--and problems--with the first two choices. (Probably some bad fretwork.) Anyway...ideas? Opinions? Thanks, Steve |
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:21 pm ] |
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*edit* ..."I'd still like to hear what you prefer..." |
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| Author: | David Collins [ Sun Nov 04, 2007 5:05 pm ] |
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I do actually lean toward the opposite of what you mentioned if I vary from the fretboard radius at all. In thoeryl, it's often appropriate to follow the same radius as the fretboard, tilted to be from 1/32" to 1/16" higher at the bass than the treble depending on the instrument and player's style. In practice, I often find myself flattening out the radius slightly toward the bass side. Loosely translated in to final string height, this would mean following a linearly progressive increase in string height from the high e to about the D, then raising string height slightly more than a linear increase would decide for the A and the E. Again, it's slight, but If I lean one way or the other it would be flattening the radius a bit to raise the bass strings more aggressively. And it all depends on player style. I'm more likely to go this route for an aggressive flatpicker than for a finger picker or folk chord strummer. |
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| Author: | David Collins [ Sun Nov 04, 2007 5:08 pm ] |
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Edit: [QUOTE=David Collins] I do actually lean toward the opposite of what you mentioned if I vary from the fretboard radius at all. [/QUOTE] And by "you" I meant Steve's method, not Terry. Terry's description would roughly line up with the same end results as mine. And of course by "theoryl" I meant "theory". That edit button should be back any day now, and I can't wait. 
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Mon Nov 05, 2007 2:48 pm ] |
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Thanks Terry, thanks David. My question, better stated, would read something like "How do you lay it out"? I end up setting the high e, the low e, then plotting the same arch as the fretboard between those two points. Then, like Terry, I shave a bit here, a bit there. I suppose I'd like a bit more predictability in the approach. Thanks again, Steve |
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| Author: | Jim Watts [ Mon Nov 05, 2007 4:46 pm ] |
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I usually throw something in there that's about the same radius as the fb but tall, then measure the string heights at the 12th fret and calculate how much I need to remove at the saddle for my desired string height. For example if I want to lower a particular string say 1/64 I'll remove a 32nd at the saddle. I bet you know that though. |
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| Author: | Daniel M [ Tue Nov 06, 2007 4:05 am ] |
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To lay out the saddle arch, I set the saddle in the bridge ( making sure it is fitted properly & firmly seated). Then I take a 24" rigid straight edge... on one end of the straight edge, I loosely tape a good sharp pencil so it sticks out 3/4" past the end of the straight edge. Lay the straight edge on a flat surface & position the pencil tip aproximately .085" above the surface & tighten the tape to keep it in place... Add more tape if needed. Then it's a simple matter of sliding the straight edge across the fingerboard with the pencil touching the saddle. Voila! A good place to start. After that the arch will be refined as required using string clearances as your guide. |
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Tue Nov 06, 2007 6:02 am ] |
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Jim, Daniel, thanks for your contributions also! Jim, it never hurts to remind anyone of the "obvious". (In my case, it's a fine idea.) Daniel, I like your approach. It reminds me of Cumpiano's method of marking the nut with a flattened pencil to do the initial height adjustment. Good stuff, amigos. Steve |
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