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Just wanted a few of you experienced Martin folk to tell me what we have here. Is this a glued MT joint with a bolt? As you'll see in the pics it has a tiny gap.

Inside is a small wood lable cover on the neck block which has the serial number on it. Is there a bolt under that wood cover?

This is a Martin 00C-MAE made in USA. On the paper lable it says Thin Body Acoustic Electric. Serial # is 707363.

A musician at church just bought this one. He's keeping it tuned down lower to cut down on string tension. The action isn't bad, but there isn't much saddle left for any further adjustment there. Ideas, suggestions, Thanks in advance.

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In the last pic you see two scratches from the body onto the neck heel. Those appear to be buckle scratches, not cracks.

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Pull the cover and tighten up the screw. It should pull right in. It's a #3
phillips head.

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Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

Okay, I'm having trouble figuring out how to pull the cover. Dang it. If this stuff were easy, everyone would be doing it. (quote from one of my fave luthiers)   

I need a broken off paring knife with about 1/2 inch of the blade bent at a 90 degree to the handle. Special tool #5469. Do they have those at StewMac's?

I'm gonna go buff a tele then have a go at this Martin. This guitar never grew up. Looks like a half a guitar.

Thanks David and Todd. I'm gonna work on this puppy momentarily.

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It should pop right off with any tool you can get in there to pry with. Wider is
better of course. Even a razor blade worked in from the edge should do it,
as once you get one edge loose it should just pop off quite quickly. That, or
use some naptha to loosen the adhesive, but I've never really found the
need. When you get ready to put it back on just scrape off all the old foam
tape and replace it with new foam tape. I like the 3m VHB adhesives, though
any foam adhesive from the hardware store will do fine.

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A funny yet functional thought just popped in to mine. If you are lacking any
bent tool to wedge in there and pop it loose, a wire-style cheese slicer
would work just fine.

It's adhered with a rather thick foam tape, and it would cut right through the
foam. I think it's easier to pop it loose, as the foam tape usually separates
rather cleanly from the neck block. With the the cheese slicer technique you
would have to spend more time scraping the surfaces clean. It's probably not
the best way to go about it, but it was such a funny fleeting thought that I
couldn't not post it.

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Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

Tele didn't do too well, but the Martin neck is tight now!

David, While I hadn't read your post above, the only think I could think of was a single edge razor blade. I didn't know it had two sided foam tape. It took some prying, but it came clear. The foam seperated half and half, I added two strips down each side to put it back.

The phillips Screw was visible pretty as you please. About five re-grips on the limited space and it was all I could possibly turn it with a screwdriver. No visible gap now, which was .008".

I tuned it up and checked the action at the body join before and after. .160/.130 before; .150/.120 after so there was some improvement. I hit the truss rod just a bit and left the strings loose overnight. That may help it straighten a little. Not holding my breath.

One thing I didn't like was that with the strings loosened, I could easily influence the neck backward, pushing it against my body. Lights may not be light enough for this guitar. He may need extra lights? Not a lot of strength it seems.

Thanks David and Todd for the great suggestions. Now Rob can sing a love song to his wife, after he gets the kids in bed! Ohhhh yeah!

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No Todd, you're right, or at least that's what I've done a few times. The
neck angle can be brought back pretty easily just with a bit of sandpaper
flossing. The only risk is that the extension really isn't on that well, and
can pop off pretty easily with the flexing back and forth during the
flossing. It's a good solid .006" layer of white glue in the small area with
finish removed, which fortunately tends to come apart quite cleanly if it
does pop loose. It's happened to me twice. If you don't want it to come
loose you can just put a clamp and block on the extension, or just reglue
it if it does come loose.

And you're also right that Martin claims to use the screw just to hold
things in place while the glue dries, but I don't personally buy it. I don't
feel a straight MT joint like that has the surface area to hold, especially
since it would be relying on shear strength. I've seen a lot of those come
loose, and of the dozen or so of those necks that I've pulled I've only had
to use steam once. The others were either already loose, or worked loose
quite easily with a bit of wiggling. I view it as a straight bolt-on neck, and
don't give the glue much credit in the joint.

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This guitar just seems weak. I'm wondering if recommending ex. Light strings is in order to keep it playable?

D'Addario shows 27 Pounds tension difference between Lights and Extra Light Phosphor Bronze.

The thin body, just doesn't seem as strong as a deeper bodied guitar. Plus, you should see the case, like someone stepped in the middle of the thing.

I'm wondering too, was the guitar in there when that happened?

Headed to the shop and dropping the saddle about .020 to help with the action. Thanks guys, very very helpful.

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