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Bending thickness for figured Bubinga http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=14784 |
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Author: | Bill Greene [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 6:32 am ] |
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Got a highly figured set of beeswing bubinga that I'm considering as one of my next builds. I've never used bubinga, or anything close to this kind of figure before. I intend on using SuperSoft for the sides, but before I thicknessed it I thought I'd ask: Any recommendation on approximate side thickness? I'll be using a fox style bender. Bill |
Author: | Dennis Leahy [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:29 am ] |
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I am a beginner (having only bent 2 sets of sides), but the last one happened to be figured (waterfall) Bubinga. I went .075", and bent it with a silicone blanket. Success! Even made it through a Venetian cutaway. Hope that helps. Dennis |
Author: | Dennis Leahy [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:33 am ] |
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Bill, p.s. I plan to try SuperSoft II on some upcoming guitars, but I do wonder just how much it could help on a very hard, moderately resinous, and smooth-pored wood like Bubinga. It might just dance on the surface of Bubinga, but I can't see how it would hurt. Dennis |
Author: | JJ Donohue [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:49 am ] |
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I've bent extreme figure Waterfall Bubinga thinning to about .085" and using Super Soft II. Bent like a breeze. I never bend sides without it anymore and am very sold on the effects of the product. Dennis...there's no surface dancing...I let it soak in for a minmum of 2 hours. I've used on hard and soft woods...it just soaks in. But I myself danced in the shop when that Bubinga came out perfectly bent with no cracks! |
Author: | Mike Collins [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:49 am ] |
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.080 or 2mm has worked for me for years with Bubinga. You may still get some bumps that can be easily sanded out. Is your wood quartered? This helps more than anything! Mike www.collinsguitars.com P.S. You might want to take some of the extra side width pieces and try bending them first to get an idea! |
Author: | Hesh [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 8:50 am ] |
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Yeah if it were me I would go at .080. It helps to have a bending system that works great for you too so you know, if anything goes wrong, that at least your methodology has worked prior many times. |
Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 8:58 am ] |
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.08-.085 if you are doing a cutaway I would use the SSII three days prior to bending |
Author: | Bill Greene [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 10:15 am ] |
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Thanks so much guys...it's settled, .080 - .085, and use SuperSoft. Got it! Bill |
Author: | Vincent Simokovich [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 10:21 am ] |
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Where do you get supersoft, and would it be recommended for curly maple? Vince |
Author: | WaddyThomson [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 1:24 pm ] |
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Highland Hardware has it. I'm sure others do to. I think Veneer Suppliers does. It is a veneer softener. |
Author: | Dennis Leahy [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 4:50 pm ] |
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Vince, some luthiers report a reaction with Supersoft II and certain woods, though the surface discoloration is supposed to sand off easily. Check the archives for "Supersoft" and see if you can find those posts. Other than that, I don't see where Supersoft would ever hurt (though some luthiers will probably say it is a waste on any Maple, figured or not, because Maple bends easily enough without it.) Dennis |
Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:58 am ] |
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Ok Here has been my experience with SSII on maple. Sprayed on and wrapped in kraft paper for 3 days. When I unwrapped the maple it had discolored. When a good 3 shades dark. I went ahead and bent the maple. When I removed it from the bender, the discoloration was gone. The same thing was true when I used it on some curly Narra and curly Mahogany. In each case it appears that the heat from the blanket cooked out glycol stain on the wood. Never bend while the wood is wet with SSII. It will stain then for sure. |
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