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| Thicknessing with hand planes http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=1871 |
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Tue May 03, 2005 3:22 pm ] |
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I'm planning to use a #4-1/2 smoothing plane to do this and was hoping to get some advice on a proven method that has worked. I purchased an Anant plane for about $50 and lapped the sole and sides to dead flat and a mirror shine. I then replaced the blade and chip breaker with Hock substitutes...so it now slices like a dream. Aside from the method in C&N, I haven't heard of anyone posting a method. I don't have C&N handy since I'm away from home for the next 2 weeks but I seem to remember him recommending a toothed blade. How necessary is this blade and what are it's advantages? Also, are there any special methods for holding down a top or back plate while planing?ny recommendations would be appreciated...TIA |
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| Author: | RCoates [ Tue May 03, 2005 3:47 pm ] |
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On one through four I used C&N's method minus the toothed blade. I just clamp it down with a cork lined caul on one corner (the top is not cut out at the time). I plane at an angle across the two halves. Seems to cut down on tear out for me. Then I turn the board around and clamp the opposite corner and plane across at the opposite angle. I think Cumpiano says the toothed blade is just to help you keep track of where you're at in the process. |
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| Author: | Harald Lane [ Tue May 03, 2005 11:28 pm ] |
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Hi JJ! I don?t think that a toothed blade is necsesary, I use only my #7 jointer to plane my Tops.It takes about 1 hr to get to the correct thickness, but check regulary with a thickness caliper to get an even result. For Backs and sides I use my thickness sander, only for ease. |
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| Author: | Robbie O'Brien [ Tue May 03, 2005 11:43 pm ] |
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JJ, I used a hand plane for many guitars. I demonstrate the method I use for thicknessing a top in my DVD BUild a Steel String Guitar with Robert O'Brien. You might find it useful to see how I do it. |
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| Author: | Steve Spodaryk [ Tue May 03, 2005 11:48 pm ] |
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One way to hold your work is with a low, wide bench stop. I use pull planes, so I clamp a 20" board in my end vise with 1/16" protruding. I can stand at the end and easily reach the whole plate. A clamp on one corner prevents twisting, but might not be necessary. You can also take a flat piece of plywood and attach a low stop to it. This allows you to place the plate comfortably on your bench, and gives you a flat reference. Eric Jensen demonstrated this at our last NEL meeting. I really like my drum sander, but have thicknessed many plates entirely by hand, and still do some cleanup and tuning by hand when necessary. |
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| Author: | LarryD [ Wed May 04, 2005 12:25 am ] |
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Toothing blades really make a difference on difficult wood that will tear-out easily, that's their main purpose in woodworking. I would worry more about having a sharp blade when working a top. I think Ronn is right when he says that the book uses it to let you see your work. Just thought you might want to know when a toothing blade might be useful. |
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