I with Zootman
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| Zpoxy for the first time http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=1957 |
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| Author: | Jimmy Caldwell [ Thu May 12, 2005 7:33 am ] |
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I've ordered some zpoxy and hope to seal the first two this weekend. I've been using Clear Coat and experienced some of the drying problems Mike Doolin alluded to in his last post. I solved it by thinning with DA and applying more coats. Good results, but I'm always looking for a better way like everyone else. For those of you who've used the Zpoxy and the System III, how does the application and thinning process differ? Does it thin with DA or is thinning unnecessary? I've heard that it dries in a day and sands easily. Anything I should watch for? The woods on these two are cocobolo/sitka and ziricote/englemann and will be sprayed with KTM-9. Thanks in advance for your help. |
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| Author: | John How [ Thu May 12, 2005 7:40 am ] |
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Just mix it up and scrape it on as thin as possible, I use a small rubber bladed window squigee cut down to about 4". I add some silica thickene if the wood is really porous. It dries sandable overnight maybe a little sooner. It is not clear and will give you a shade of yellow/amber which can be nice depending on what you want. I don't thin the mix unless I'm just wiping on the get full coverage after the filling is done. Be sure to use a lint free cloth if you wiping, tee shirt stuff works well, then I thin it with DA or everclear till it's like a thick shellac. |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Thu May 12, 2005 7:41 am ] |
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I use the Zpoxy finishing resin and not the Zpoxy 20min or 5min epoxy it is much thinner so I find no need to thin. I sand in 48 hrs. probably could in 24 but harder is better. |
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| Author: | tl507362 [ Thu May 12, 2005 8:04 am ] |
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Don't plan on going to the spray booth after 24 hours. On the 2 guitars I have used it on, I have never had all the pores filled after one, or even 2 coats. But if you are spraying with KTM9, the finish should fill in the small pores. On my first, the lacquer filled in any left over pores, so no big deal, but when using shellac, it matters! I wait 24 hours to sand between coats. I do 2 full strength a day apart, then sand to level, and the last coat is a 50/50 mix of DA and zpoxy. Let that dry then lightly sand and your ready for your spray. I use an old credit card to squeegee. Good luck! Tracy |
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| Author: | Tim McKnight [ Thu May 12, 2005 11:12 am ] |
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I used a {black] rubber window squeegie and the Zpoxy leached some black color out of the rubber and left a nice creamy white Carpathian top pretty nasty looking. Be sure to test your squeegie material first. I have had better luck using a 3M yellow plastic autobody bondo applicator. |
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| Author: | Bobc [ Thu May 12, 2005 12:51 pm ] |
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And one more way. I don't thin because it's thin enough. I use a single edge razor blade that I sort of blunt the edge and round the corners with sandpaper on a piece of plate glass but anything flat will do. It give you great control in removing the excess epoxy and leaves a very smooth finish. No problem sanding the next day. I don't z-poxy my tops. Just shellac seal coats. |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Fri May 13, 2005 12:27 am ] |
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I with Zootman
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| Author: | Jimmy Caldwell [ Fri May 13, 2005 2:42 am ] |
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Bob, Are you using waterborne or nitro? I don't want any tinting on the top, and am thinking about just putting a wash coat of 50/50 KTM9 and DA on the top as a sealer. |
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| Author: | Paul Schulte [ Fri May 13, 2005 5:55 am ] |
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I think I was the first person to use Z-poxy (PT-40)for pore filling and turned BobC onto it and it got onto this forum and it seems it's become popular, so here is my take on using it. I Don't thin Z-poxy, it is already fairly thin. Add thickeners if you'd like (depends on your technique)but is just an added cost. The first coat of Z-Poxy will be somewhat absorbed by the wood, and I scrape the majority off diaganally to the grain. I treat the first coat as a sealer. Use anything you'd like to scrap off the excess. I've used razor blades, credit cards, and squegees all with succes. If I've left any ridges after the first coat dries I sand them off before the next coat. I apply the second coat thicker trying to fill all the pores. After this coat cures I try to sand all the surfaces flat without cutting down to the bare wood. If I cut thru to bare wood or still have open pores I recoat as in my first step. I final sand down to 600 grit. My goal is to try to achieve a pefectly flat surface before applying any finish. I've found that getting the surface flat at this point makes final finishing much easier. |
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| Author: | Bobc [ Fri May 13, 2005 9:00 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Jimmy Caldwell] Bob, Are you using waterborne or nitro? I don't want any tinting on the top, and am thinking about just putting a wash coat of 50/50 KTM9 and DA on the top as a sealer.[/QUOTE] Jimmy I use KTM-9 and Targets WB Amber Shelac. I wouldn't even bother with a wash coat. Just spray the KTM-9. The first coat or two will just absorb into the top anyway. |
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