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| Author: | bob J [ Fri May 13, 2005 9:50 pm ] |
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Sorry, another stupid question. I've seen mention of shooting boards. As I understand it, it's a setup to sand or plane wood over a long continuous distance. I also believe when planing you use one of those six foot planes that cost around five thousand dollars  . Could someone please explain how they are made; a couple of pictures would be greatly appreciated. Are there other uses than those I've mentioned?
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| Author: | LanceK [ Sat May 14, 2005 12:50 am ] |
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Bob- do you have Guitarmaking by Cumpiano? IIRC he discribs a shooting board in it. ill try to get you a pic later today. |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Sat May 14, 2005 1:26 am ] |
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Well, couple of pics of the things in the MIMF.com library, IIRC. Say whatever you will about the policies, but there's a wealth of information there that shouldn't be ignored simply because one doesn't agree with the policies/personalities of people running the place. Plenty of good people, interesting discussions, and valuable information to be found there. It's simple, really: Take a flat surface (table, say). Take two scraps of ply/mdf/whatever longer than the set you want to joint. Possibly face one or both with sandpaper for some added grip, but I haven't found that necessary. Line up the pieces to be bookmatched, stacked on top of each other. Clamp them between the two scraps with just a small edge (maybe 1/4") protruding past the scraps. Basically, you've got a sandwich like this: Tabletop-scrap-plates-scrap, with the two bits of scrap lined up with each other, the plates lined up and protruding a little. Take a plane (I've done with a #4, now have a #5 I want to use), set to fine cut, turn it on it's side, and 'shoot' down the edge, checking every once in a while, until you've got a good joint. Cheap, easy, and works quite well. |
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| Author: | bob J [ Sat May 14, 2005 1:26 am ] |
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Lance, thanks so much. I do have the book, Duh. |
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| Author: | bob J [ Sat May 14, 2005 1:30 am ] |
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Thanks Mattia, Sound simple enough, even for me! Is the plane you use one of those giants? |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Sat May 14, 2005 1:38 am ] |
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Bob, I have made a 6" block plane work, its harder to use, but possible. I also have a 12" Stanly that works a little better, but these days, I use a joiner and the stew mac fret leveler with 320 paper stuck on one side if I need to fine tune the join. Mario had one fantastic tip ( well hes got a LOT of great tips) but for joining, after you think you have it, press your plates together against a window or doorwall and look for light in the join, if you see it, your not done. |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Sat May 14, 2005 1:40 am ] |
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basic version: two pieces of smooth faced, flat ply, birch or the like, about 3 feet long, one about 10" wide, one about 18' wide, glue together with one long edge and two short edges flush. done. you can increase witdths and length to accomodate hold down clamps and stops if you feel the need. i find a #5 jack plane my favourite for most woods, though have used a #4 smooth to good effect. my 15 or so planes are mostly old stanleys, with a miller's falls, a sargeant and an unbranded wooden version thrown in and were accumulated from garage sales and auctions. the most expensive was $20 for a #6 foreplane and the cheapest $5 for a #3 scrubber. all still have the irons etc. that were in them when i bought them, but all required some setup time to get them working well. can't say i haven't been tempted to try the flash hock irons, or submit to an overpowering rush of hubris and part with the ready for any lie-niesen, but those temptations tend to pass as i watch shavings you can read through fall to the floor. but unfortunately the temptation (which) would almost double my total expenditure on planes)to get one of the small lie-niesen scraper planes is still causing the moths to be nervous though,; where's my visa..... |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Sat May 14, 2005 1:54 am ] |
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[QUOTE=bob J] Thanks Mattia, Sound simple enough, even for me! Is the plane you use one of those giants?[/QUOTE] It really is. As stated, I started with a bog-standard, new, UK-made Stanley #4 smooth plane (9" long sole), but I've since aquired a nice, old 1910-1915 era #5 Stanley Bailey plane (friend found it for me at an antique store, sent it to me), which has a 15" sole. Should make things easier. It's not really a 'giant' as such. I'd like a big 'ol #7 or something, and if I find one, I'll get one. |
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| Author: | LarryD [ Sat May 14, 2005 2:02 am ] |
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A #5 works well with lenghts in this range, a #4 would even work. Longer ones work better with long pieces. Make sure your plane is tuned dead flat and that your iron is square to the bottom. I have seen many people try out shooting boards for jointing boards and not get it right due to their plane not their shooting board setup. Also needs to be really sharp. Take thin swips for awhile till you get the hang of it. Old planes setup right will rival any high dollar one made today, even without the hock blade. |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Sat May 14, 2005 2:03 am ] |
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have't tried one of the #7 jointers, but i found the 22" #6 foreplane to be far too heavy and cumbersome for the task. the #5 jack or the #4 smooth suit me better. the long planes have their uses, but for me it is not in joining tops, or backs either. |
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| Author: | Glen S. [ Sat May 14, 2005 3:25 am ] |
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Bob, I have tried shooting boards, and have had little success. Others seem to do well with it! If you have a problem...try this. I have some formica laminated MDF panels. I take a piece of hard wood..Oak works well, about 24" long and 3 " wide . I drill a 1/4"hole at each end. Then drill trough these and through the MDF and secure the board to the Laminated MDF with 1/4"-20 carrage bolts and wing nuts. This becomes a fence. I put a 1/2" straight bit in the old laminate trimmer, and going into the rotation of the bit, route a shallow trench through the laminate and into the MDF. Keeping the trimmer right along the fence! When bookmatching Back or tops, I mark the bookmatch on the end grain of all plates. One plate is slipped under the hardwood fence, and the pencil mark is put right on the edge of the trench at both ends. The wing nuts are tightened so the plate is stationary. The piece you are not cutting is clamped to the laminated panel...NEAR the trench on the opposite side. This is used as a support for the lam trimmer. Run the trimmer down the fence, once again, this time cutting the overhanging section of the plate. Keep the lam trimmer against that fence the whole way!! Now...don't remove that first plate. Take the second plate, and now clamp it to the laminated MDF, with both it's edges..that have been marked,just over the trench. Once satisfied with it's placement, run the lam trimmer up the fence in the opposite direction that you came down it. You will still be cutting against the rotation of the bit. Run the laminate trimmer right through to the end..and keep it on the fence!! If you think you came off the fence, you probably did, and start right from the beginning of the proceedure again. The good thing about this method, is that if something strange happens...like..the hardwood fence warps or bends over time, you will put the same error into the first plate as the second, and they will match up fine and "Candle" perfectly. This is the only method I use to join Tops and Backs! Just the thought of a shooting board...makes my hair hurt! Best of Luck, Glen |
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