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| Help me hide a crack... http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=1980 |
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| Author: | RCoates [ Sun May 15, 2005 12:44 pm ] |
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As you're probably aware I had a rough time with the Bubinga. This resulted, after everything is said and done, with one small crack in the upper bout bend. It's about 1" and is really just a crack in the top layer. In other words it doesn't go all the way through. It is across the grain. Picture slicing a sliver off a block of wood and that is the type of crack it is. I plan to bend a piece of rosewood and reinforce the bend from the inside then hide the crack with a series of small sound port holes. Anyway, anyone else have any other ideas? What if I couldn't hide it like I plan to then what? How would I go about making it as invisible as possible under the finish? I tried flooding it with CA clampling it down then sanding it smooth once dry but that seems to make it a dark crack... Even under a coat of water to simulate a finish. Let's hear it gurus... |
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| Author: | Don A [ Sun May 15, 2005 1:25 pm ] |
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Another alternative. If you can find one that will fit the shape of the cracked area, install an onboard pickup system. |
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| Author: | John Mayes [ Sun May 15, 2005 2:22 pm ] |
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Hide a crack? Isn't what Boxer shorts are for? (sorry I'm feeling like a smart aleck tonight....) |
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Sun May 15, 2005 2:42 pm ] |
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How deep is the crack? If you've already got it clogged up w/ CA glue--and it just highlighted the problem--you might be forced to sand deep enough to sand it away... then reinforce it on the inside w/ something. (Is that possible? Would it alter the shape too much?) Just a guess...dispensing advice is so hard when one can't see the problem. Besides, John beat me to the real solution.  |
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| Author: | Robbie O'Brien [ Sun May 15, 2005 2:50 pm ] |
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try epoxy to level it and then just finish right over the top. Also, dyes and toners work well to hide that kind of stuff. I have also been known to use a marker or even an artist brush and some color to doctor things a bit. |
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| Author: | EBarajas [ Sun May 15, 2005 3:05 pm ] |
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John I don't think that was the type of crack he was talking about. 
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| Author: | Bobc [ Sun May 15, 2005 7:20 pm ] |
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Ron like Steve suggested if it's not too deep sand it out or doctor it up with markers or what ever. I can send you a piece of bubinga veneer for the inside. It would probably match better. |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Sun May 15, 2005 11:00 pm ] |
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Ronn - Depending on how deep the crack is, sanding it back is what I would try - also because the crack is in the upper bout area, in the bend, you may not need to reinforce it, thats a pretty stiff area due to the bend. I have found that using hot hide glue or LMI white and a clamp to press cracks back together makes them less visible, the CA tends to (as you have found out) darken the wood, because it soaks into the end grain- HHG does not. I had a set of Black Acacia crack in several spots around the upper bouts, I did a test - ca on one and LMI white on two others, the LMI fix is practically invisible, the CA has left a dark line, its not to bad because the Acacia is full of streaks and figure - so I'm not to concerned, but this just verified to me to stay away from CA on anything but dark wood. Speaking of dark woods, im building a Ziricote soft-cutaway L1Grand Parlor, as I was sanding the radius into the top of the rims, I broke a piece off that was about 3" long and 1.5 inches deep into the upper bout area near the neck block, I was pretty bummed, I took out my CA, taped the mega chip back in place, flooded it crap out of it, then sanded it back and its 100% invisible, so there is definitely use for CA, but the ziricote is a pretty dark wood. |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Sun May 15, 2005 11:48 pm ] |
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Sound port? How big is it? Which side is it on? The players side? |
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| Author: | Tim McKnight [ Mon May 16, 2005 2:40 am ] |
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I had that happen on a set of Madagascar RW sides. I ended up ripping the sides (in my band saw) to eliminate the crack which resulted in a body depth of about 2-3/4" to 3" deep. I was going to feed the sides to my wood stove and my wife suggested making a shallow body. I now have a top on it but haven't finished it yet. I was very surprised on how much bass it had by tapping on the top. I assumed I would have lost bass but I may have actually gained a bit... Go figure? |
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| Author: | Dave-SKG [ Mon May 16, 2005 2:54 am ] |
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"How deep is the crack?" That sounds like a personal question! All kidding aside I had a bubinga set crack on me in the upper bout and used CA and then sanded back. It is invisible now that it is finished. Lance is right tho, I think HHG is a better choice. I wouldn't even worry about re-inforcing the interior. especialy since it didn't go all the way thru. An inside patch is just going to call attention to it.
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| Author: | John How [ Mon May 16, 2005 4:36 am ] |
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If your going to use CA or whatever glue to fix it you need the try to close it as tightly as possibly. I assume the crack is on the ouside of the bend in the upper bout. Apply pressure enough to close it and then use the CA, hold until dry and if you can close it it should sand away. |
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| Author: | RCoates [ Mon May 16, 2005 1:24 pm ] |
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Thnx guys. In no particular order here are some answers/thoughts; The side in this area is quite thin, .075 minus the sanding I've already done. I did clamp it very tight and applied the CA I don't believe I could sand down past the crack without being paper thin when done. White glue may have been a better option... too late now Yes on the player's side. About 1" long starting right at the back edge and running exactly pependicular to the grain/binding. Sound port, yes. Actually I believe I will "attempt" to place the sound port where the prolongation of the crack would bisect it. By doing this I can inlay a sun type pattern around it and one of the rays will cover the crack. That is the grand plan for the moment. Keep in mind inlay is not one of my strong points. I really appreciate all those that took time to respond. I hope not to have to recall and use the info provided at anytime in the future but I think the odds are against me. |
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| Author: | EricKeller [ Tue May 17, 2005 9:53 am ] |
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Put a raised reinforcing border on the soundport. I've seen people do this, probably not to cover a crack either. |
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| Author: | RCoates [ Tue May 17, 2005 12:06 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=EricKeller] Put a raised reinforcing border on the soundport. I've seen people do this, probably not to cover a crack either.[/QUOTE] I actually thought of this. I wasn't sure I could pull it off with out looking bad. Not that it can't be done, I'm just not real creative/artistic. |
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