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| I want to resaw something - help! http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=2084 |
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| Author: | Jeff Doty [ Thu Jun 02, 2005 9:50 am ] |
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Hey Everyone, Bought a 14 inch Delta bandsaw last week. I love it! Now, what do I need to know to resaw some wood? I have been reading resawing articles, but most of those don't address resawing for guitar sets. How do you do it? What do I look for? Etc., etc., etc. Thanks for the help! Jeff |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Thu Jun 02, 2005 10:51 am ] |
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bobc would be the guy to ask, but here's my $.02 worth: the resawing technique is the same for guitar wood as anything else. if you are going to resaw for guitar sets i assume you also bought and installed the riser block? you will need it to cut back wood. have you made or bought a tall resaw fence? have you bought a good resaw blade? on a 14" saw a 1/2" blade is probably your limit without running the risk of premature breakage. if not,highland hardwear for one sells very good 1/2" resaw blades. you sould get a few lengths of 2x6(say 34" long) and 2x8 or 2x10(about 22" long) to practice on if you've not done it before. try to select them so they are like quarter sawn. you should aim for your variation in thickness corner to corner and across your off cuts being at least =<.02", though if it's greater on the thick side of your target thickness you will only waste valuable wood as you thin more than intended, and perhaps end up with orphans. aiming for 3/16" or 7/32" for the cuts on the 2x8 or 2x10 would simulate cutting backs, and aiming for 1/8" or 5/32 on the 2x6 to simulate cutting sides both would be realistic. when you get your technique down so that you are producing results acceptable to you then you are ready to attack good wood. i would recommend your first efforts on tonewood be on dry top wood; being softer it is easier to do than hard back and side stock, particlarly maple which will also char readily. any green wood will be a bear on a 14" saw. just not enough power to do green stock thin and accurately. before you attack expensive hardwood, maybe try some oak or other less expensive hardwood to practice on. |
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| Author: | Bobc [ Thu Jun 02, 2005 11:48 pm ] |
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Jeff you have recieved some great advise from Mike & Michael. Not a whole lot I can add. Just remember you need a fence that you can adjust for blade drift. Once that is adjusted you should be able to acheive consistant results. The Woodslicer is a good blade as well as the Timberwolfe. I believe Don Williams has a good source for the woodslicer blade. Also I need I would use a push stick well before the final 1". Push sticks slip too. I made a push block that straddles my fence with a handle to push it thru on the in side of the fence. Works very well and can't slip off. |
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| Author: | Don Williams [ Fri Jun 03, 2005 3:09 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Bobc]I believe Don Williams has a good source for the woodslicer blade.[/QUOTE] Well yes I do! If you contact Iturra Design, they sell the same blade under a different name for about 2/3 the price of the Highland Hardware version. |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Fri Jun 03, 2005 3:20 am ] |
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thanks don, i had failed to mention itturra; i have posted his number before but again: 888-722-7078 he is a great source for infomation as well as bandsaw accessaries. |
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| Author: | Jeff Doty [ Fri Jun 03, 2005 10:56 am ] |
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Thanks Everyone, I appreciate all the help. So, how do you go about selecting the wood you are going to resaw? Say I want to get some mahogany to resaw into back and side sets. What do I look for as far as the back billet and side billet matching? What sizes or dimensions? What criteria do I use to determine what is good wood to use, and what is not? Lots of questions, maybe there are no real answers, but I will take any suggestions you might have. Thanks! Jeff |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Fri Jun 03, 2005 11:10 am ] |
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Don't I remember a thread from a few weeks ago about how you could buy a bolt of spruce from Alaskaspruce.com for pretty cheap? That might be a good place to start. If you are looking for Mahogany. Check out GilmerWood.com or West Penn Hardwoods. I have gotten nice stuff from both of them. |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Fri Jun 03, 2005 3:19 pm ] |
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examine for how well it's quartered, if the colour, texture and figure are visually compatible, and lay your money down. make sure you take a block plane along else you will have a very difficult time reading the quarter. |
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| Author: | tippie53 [ Sat Jun 04, 2005 11:01 am ] |
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I do some resawing with my band saw. I found a plain 1 inch bandsaw blade with4-6 teeth per inch gave the best results. I made my fence with plywood and it worked rather well once I made it through the learning curve. I also recommend to use feather boards. One pushing onto the fence hi and one low just in front of the blade. This helps to keep the work stable. Easy even pressure will do well. Cut the sides first to get a feel. I agree to use some cheaper wood before you tackle the high price stuff. Take your time and you should do well . I use grizzly blades. They are not too expensive and did a fine job. I had a few high end blades and did get better results with grizzly's as the coarser tooth cut clear the gullets better. After all it is getting thicknessed and sanded. The cut was surprisingly smooth. Prep the blade by stoning the weld so it runs smooth. Also radius the back edges. This you can do with a stone and hand turning the blade. john hall |
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